The IFSCC 2025 once again confirms an unquestionable fact: advancement of cosmetic science in recent years has been unstoppable. As collaborations between commercial brands and ingredient providers have steadily moved towards a scientific perspective, the cosmetic market continues advancing towards increased efficacy and innovative claims.
While science is often regarded as a series of ‘aha!’ moments in the minds of solitary researchers, the truth is science works thanks to a collaborative approach. In the context of cosmetic science, it’s gatherings like the IFSCC Congress where true breakthrough innovations can be shared among peers.
Often referred to as the Nobel Prize for cosmetic science, this congress put together by the International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists often sets a standard for what innovation in cosmetic science will look like in the coming years.
What does the 35th IFSCC Congress say about the current state of cosmetic science? Taking place in Cannes (France) from 15th to 18th September 2025 and under the theme ‘The Future is Science’, here’s a look at some of the most current and relevant scientific topics in the sector as seen from Provital’s perspective and the innovations we present at the Congress.
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The IFSCC Congress: a blueprint for the future of cosmetic science
The International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists is a federation dedicated to international cooperation in cosmetic science and technology. Gathering 48 Societies representing 78 countries, it has set high standards of scientific and educational qualifications and is composed of 16,000 members. As such, it can be argued that it offers a realistic picture of what the most advanced cosmetic science endeavors look like today, and includes the participation of worldwide known brands such as L’Óreal.
As science and innovation stand at the core of our business practices, at Provital we have contributed to IFSCC congresses and conferences since 1992, first participating at the 17th Congress at Yokohama (Japan).
Today, we take pride in showing a strong commitment to our shared strategic vision: scientific positioning in the cosmetic market is an essential choice for us as an active ingredient manufacturer. This participation is crucial as networking in the cosmetic science community is essential for all R&D&I departments. As we understand it, collaboration is key for scientific advancement, and building bridges among peers guarantees a steady path forward.
IFSCC gatherings can be described as days packed with cosmetic science knowledge. Here’s a breakdown of the key scientific pillars of the congress in 2025:
- Day 1: Skin & hair health and wellbeing: This day focuses on a holistic view of beauty, moving beyond surface-level treatments. Sessions will explore the impact of both internal and external stressors on skin and hair. Specific areas of discussion include Exposome impact, Photobiology, and the emerging field of Cognitive and Affective sciences, highlighting the connection between mental wellbeing and cosmetic efficacy. This is for researchers interested in the integrated, systemic science behind cosmetic claims.
- Day 2: Holistic sciences: The focus shifts to the interconnected ecosystem of the body. Key topics include the crucial role of the microbiome and its influence on skin and hair health, as well as the science of longevity. This day is a must for developers exploring new, multi-target approaches and seeking to decode the biological hallmarks of aging to create more integrated and effective products.
- Day 3: Diversity & personalization: This final day is dedicated to inclusive and customized cosmetic solutions. The program will cover the science of skin and hair color, biological pigmentation, and the use of biotech-derived ingredients. A major emphasis will be placed on the integration of cutting-edge technologies like ‘omics’, digital technology, and AI for product diagnostics and evaluation. This is where the future of precision cosmetics and personalized formulation will be discussed in detail.
Provital’s 5 key innovations for IFSCC 2025
1. Upcycled apple flower extract demonstrates clinical efficacy in cellulite reduction through activation of caloric restriction
Cellulite is a common skin condition, primarily affecting women, characterized by dimpled, “orange peel” skin, especially on the thighs and buttocks. It’s caused by enlarged fat cells (adipocytes) beneath the skin.
Provital’s previous research showed that an active extracted from upcycled appple flower can reduce fat cell formation and encourage fat breakdown by activating a specific pathway in fat cells (mTOR/PI3K/Akt pathway), similar to what happens when you reduce calorie intake. This study investigatess if this fat-reducing effect would translate to visible cellulite reduction in people.
A double-blind, placebo-controlled study that involved 60 women with cellulite who applied the active or a placebo to their upper thighs and buttocks for 56 days. Researchers measured thigh perimeter, skin elasticity, hydration, topography (smoothness), the length of the dermal-hypodermal junction (which indicates bumpiness), and skin firmness in different ways.
The results for all clinical parameters definitively showed that the active visibly reduces the “orange peel” appearance of cellulite. And these positive effects are attributed to its ability to stimulate fat breakdown in the underlying fat cells in a new mechanism related to the up and coming cellular Caloric Restriction.
2. Reishi extract enhances skin firmness and collagen organization
As we age, our skin loses firmness and density due to factors like thinning of the outer layer, reduced water content, and a decrease in collagen and elastin. This leads to visible signs like sagging, wrinkles, and dryness.
In the study showcased, our researchers compare Ganoderma lucidum extract with Centella asiatica extract, a common firming ingredient, to see their effects on skin cells (normal human dermal fibroblasts – NHDF) and skin tissue samples (skin explants). We measured collagen I, elastin, and hyaluronic acid production, as well as antioxidant activity and collagen organization.
This research strongly suggests that this active ingredient extracted from Ganoderma lucidum is a powerful ingredient for skin firming. It works by acting as a powerful antioxidant, increasing the synthesis of collagen I, elastin, and hyaluronic acid, and actively reorganizing collagen fibers to improve overall dermal tension and firmness.
3. More on Pureblome™ : Bacillus velezensis endophyte extract (A multi-functional ingredient for adult acne and skin well-aging)
Pureblome™, our 2nd Triplobiome Technology powered ingredient, is a ferment extract from the endophyte Bacillus velezensis , which was isolated from the medicinal plant Hyssopus officinalis. The ingredient is shown to effectively combat both adult acne and signs of aging in vitro.
Besides, a clinical study with 76 women between the ages of 30 and 50 who used the product for 56 days showed significant improvements compared to a placebo. Some of the results showcased in this study are
- Reduced acne and sebum: Participants saw a 10% reduction in pore diameter, a 16.5% drop in sebum production, and a 10.7% decrease in acne lesions.
- Improved skin texture: The active reduced skin unevenness and improved smoothness by nearly 8%.
- Well-aging results: users experienced a 12.4% reduction in wrinkle depth and a significant improvement in skin firmness and elasticity.
- Faster skin renewal: It also accelerated the skin’s natural renewal process (stratum corneum turnover) by shortening the cycle by nearly 2 days.
The women in the study also noticed these benefits themselves, with high percentages reporting improved skin evenness, a mattifying effect, and less visible acne spots.
Pureblome™ is an agro-psychological solution that combines the psychological benefits of nature with the physical renewal of sustainable practices. It harnesses the power of the symbiotic relationship between agroecological hyssop and its endophytic bacteria. The women in the study also noticed these benefits themselves, with high percentages reporting improved skin evenness, a mattifying effect, and less visible acne spots.
4. An image-based method for assessing depigmenting agents in reconstructed human pigmented epidermis models
The demand for effective skin-lightening products is high, but the traditional ways of testing them in the lab have some major downsides. Methods like extracting melanin (the pigment that gives skin its color) are often not sensitive enough, vary widely in their results, and are hard to reproduce reliably. In pursuit of our strategic goal of achieving independence, Provital has made a significant investment in developing 3D skin models from scratch in our own laboratories. This allows us to fine-tune our needs and notably increase our in-house expertise in these techniques.
Recent key findings in this direction have been featured in scientific journals such as JID Innovations, well known for their high-quality, peer-reviewed research in the field of skin biology and disease. It is a companion publication to the Journal of Investigative Dermatology (JID) and is a collaboration between the Society for Investigative Dermatology (SID) and the European Society for Dermatological Research (ESDR).
To fix these problems, we have developed a new, image-based testing method using Reconstructed Human Pigmented Epidermis (RHPE), which is essentially lab-grown human skin containing pigment. This new method uses machine-learning software (Ilastik) to precisely measure melanin levels from images of the skin samples.
When comparing the new image-based method to the traditional melanin extraction method using kojic acid (a well-known skin lightener) as a benchmark, the results were striking:
- Higher sensitivity: The traditional method showed a 29% reduction in melanin with kojic acid, while the image analysis revealed a more significant 40% reduction. This indicates the new method is more sensitive in detecting changes.
- Consistency: All three methods used in the comparison (melanin extraction, image analysis, and a staining method called Fontana-Masson) showed statistically significant results, but the image-based method proved to be more sensitive.
- Non-destructive: A major benefit of the image-based method is that it doesn’t destroy the skin sample. This means the same sample can be used for other tests, like studying proteins or gene expression, providing a more complete picture of how a depigmenting agent works.
This innovative image-based method offers a more accurate, reliable, and sensitive way to evaluate depigmenting agents. By overcoming the limitations of older techniques, it marks a significant step forward in developing and validating the next generation of skin-brightening products.
5. Touching beauty: transforming skin smoothness with Hydrafence™
The study featured adds a new high-tech test to Hydrafence™, an ingredient that combines upcycled Oryza sativa (rice) amylopectin and sustainably sourced Lithothamnion calcareum (a type of algae). It was already known to be a great moisturizer but the new results showed that it significantly and consistently reduced these vibration signals compared to a placebo, indicating a much smoother skin surface.
How? We used an innovative device called the TouchyFinger® to measure skin smoothness. This device works by detecting the tiny vibrations (or “noise”) created when it slides over the skin. The less noise it makes, the smoother the skin is. This method helps quantify the sensory experience of touch, which plays a big role in how we perceive skincare products.
- Fast and long-lasting: The improvements in smoothness were noticeable just one hour after application and continued to build over 14 and 28 days.
- Persistent effects: Impressively, the effects were still significant even five days after people stopped using the product.
- Deeper impact: The vibration reductions occurred in frequencies that stimulate specific sensory receptors in the skin, which suggests the ingredient is directly improving the feeling of smoothness.
The study confirms that Hydrafence™ is a highly effective ingredient for creating noticeably smoother skin. The use of the TouchyFinger® device provides a new, objective way to measure the sensory experience of touch, linking the product’s functional benefits directly to the positive emotional response associated with soft, smooth skin.
The innovative mechanisms of Hydrafence™ mean the ingredient acts on three fronts, providing a “triple-defense” action:
- Stimulating the synthesis of ceramides in the epidermis to reinforce barrier function.
- Improving epidermal cohesion for a smoother skin surface.
- Reducing transepidermal water loss to maintain hydration.
Provital’s past contributions to the IFSCC Congress
Provital has always made the most of this coming together of experts in cosmetic science, and our participation in 2020 proves it, as our poster on Senolysis got the TOP10 qualification in Yokohama, Japan (31st IFSCC Congress).
That time, we presented the poster “Sensolysis, a cutting-edge strategy for healthy skin aging activated by Althaea Rosea stem cells”. As such, our research targeted the revolutionary field of cellular senescence, which studies the deleterious consequences on tissue functionality brought about by this process, which today is considered one of the hallmarks of aging. Our cosmetic science research presented at the Congress allowed us to identify a plant ingredient (Althaea Rosea stem cells extract) that displays senolytic activity (i.e., selective elimination of senescent cells) in human dermal fibroblasts (HDF) models.
During IFSCC 2024 Congress, we presented two key innovations targeting product efficacy and advancements around hair protection against oxidative stress (Keradeep); and anti-pollution and well-aging active that preserves the microbiome and improves the lipidomic profile in the skin (Shiloxome™).
In the context of antipollution skincare, we were proud to see our study “Anti-Pollution and Anti-Aging Activities of the Endophytic Yeast Kwoniella mangroviensis Isolated from the Cork Oak Tree” featured in the IFSCC Congress Magazine, where we presented the results obtained using the endophytic yeast Kwoniella mangroviensis isolated from Quercus suber. This feature includes a Metabolomic analysis, which revealed secondary metabolites with interesting antimicrobial and antiinflammatory bioactivities, along with major compounds such as beta-glucan and xylitol; and our in vitro studies, which showed that the active exhibited anti-pollution effects on human keratinocytes exposed to urban dust, as well as anti-aging activity by inducing extracellular matrix formation in human dermal fibroblasts (RNA-Seq whole-transcriptome analysis and protein quantification). We also introduced our new Triplobiome™ Technology, a novel platform for the isolation and biotechnological production of plant endophytes as a sustainable source for natural and traceable active cosmetic ingredients.
Furthermore, we were selected for a podium talk to share all these findings at the 34th IFSCC Congress in Brazil. In her presentation, Silvia Benito (Science Communication Manager in Provital), highlighted how this groundbreaking active ingredient, derived from plant endophytes (Triplobiome™ Technology), protects the skin’s microbiome while improving its lipidomic profile.
Provital’s commitment to the future of sustainable cosmetic science
All these innovations point in the same direction: at Provital, we are committed to pushing the boundaries of cosmetic science, striving to achieve a sustainable industry that can offer high efficacy with its ingredients while reducing its environmental impact.
This approach drives us to constantly support the work of the IFSCC and to often take a leading role in many research initiatives that help advance cosmetic science.
For further information or insights on this topic, please do not hesitate to contact our team of experts, who are available to provide guidance and support in selecting the most suitable solutions for your requirements.
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