The IFSCC 2024 once again confirms an unquestionable fact: advancement of cosmetic science in recent years has been unstoppable. As collaborations between commercial brands and ingredient providers have steadily moved towards a scientific perspective, the cosmetic market continues advancing towards increased efficacy and innovative claims.
While science is often regarded as a series of ‘aha!’ moments in the minds of solitary researchers, the truth is science works thanks to a collaborative approach. In the context of cosmetic science, it’s gatherings like the IFSCC Congress where true breakthrough innovations can be shared among peers.
Often referred to as the Nobel Prize for cosmetic science, this congress put together by the International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists often sets a standard for what innovation in cosmetic science will look like in the coming years.
What does the 34th IFSCC Congress say about the current state of cosmetic science? Taking place in Brazil from 14th to 27th October 2024 and under the theme ‘Biodiversity in cosmetics: reaching sustainable technologies’, here’s a look at some of the most current and relevant scientific topics in the sector as seen from Provital’s perspective and the innovations we present at the Congress.
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The IFSCC Congress: a blueprint for the future of cosmetic science
The International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists is a federation dedicated to international cooperation in cosmetic science and technology. Gathering 50 Societies representing 80 countries, it has set high standards of scientific and educational qualifications and is composed of 16,000 members. As such, it can be argued that it offers a realistic picture of what the most advanced cosmetic science endeavors look like today, and includes the participation of worldwide known brands such as L’Óreal.
As science and innovation stand at the core of our business practices, at Provital we have contributed to IFSCC congresses and conferences since 1992, first participating at the 17th Congress at Yokohama (Japan).
Today, we are bronze sponsors of the fair and take pride in showing a strong commitment to our shared strategic vision: scientific positioning in the cosmetic market is an essential choice for us as an active ingredient manufacturer. This participation is crucial as networking in the cosmetic science community is essential for all R&D&I departments. As we understand it, collaboration is key for scientific advancement, and building bridges among peers guarantees a steady path forward.
IFSCC gatherings can be described as days packed with cosmetic science knowledge. In the case of the 2024, current leading trends in technology, scientific research and added value to cosmetics aligned in the program as follows:
- 14 workshops on the 14th of October
- 3 days of Congress and trade shows, with a networking dinner hosted by Provital on the first day
Provital’s 4 key innovations for IFSCC 2024
1. Pine tree bark extract protects the molecular structure of hair from oxidative damage caused by bleaching and heat
A new ally emerges targeting hair protection against oxidative stress from treatments like bleaching, perming, and coloring, as well as urban pollution, ultimately causing texture variations, breakage, and vulnerability to humidity.
Our innovation suggests employing pine tree bark extract (PTBE), from Pinus pinaster, as a global protector to prevent hair damage, offering a solution to mitigate the effects of oxidative stresses on hair proteins from a preventative perspective. More specifically, this innovation considers how typical hair oxidative damage results in chemical modifications of keratin such as carbonylation, impairing keratin function. As such, it offers an effective strategy that prevents external factors from causing carbonylation, thus shielding hair from damage that cannot be reversed.
2. More on Shiloxome™, an anti-pollution and well-aging active that preserves the microbiome and improves the lipidomic profile in the skin
In this groundbreaking initiative, we build from a previous study in which we described the isolation of a relevant collection of plant endophytes, showing that the ferment extract of the endophyte Kwoniella mangroviensis (KMFE) exhibited anti-ageing and anti-pollution effects in vitro. Now, we investigate the in vivo well-aging efficacy of KMFE by instrumental analysis as well as by a multi-omics study including microbiome and cutting-edge lipidome analysis of human skin volunteers.
This development builds from our cutting-edge work with plant endophytes, the symbiotic microorganisms have become ideal candidates to identify and produce novel and sustainable cosmetic actives.
3. A multi-omic study that reveals how apple flower extract reduces cellulite by mimicking caloric restriction
A breakthrough research initiative that assesses the effect of Pyrus malus flower extract (PME) on cellulite, considering its impact on adipogenesis and lipolysis in human preadipocytes.
Provital’s past contributions to the IFSCC Congress
Provital has always made the most of this coming together of experts in cosmetic science, and our participation in 2020 proves it, as our poster on Senolysis got the TOP10 qualification in Yokohama, Japan (31st IFSCC Congress).
That time, we presented the poster “Sensolysis, a cutting-edge strategy for healthy skin aging activated by Althaea Rosea stem cells”. As such, our research targeted the revolutionary field of cellular senescence, which studies the deleterious consequences on tissue functionality brought about by this process, which today is considered one of the hallmarks of aging. Our cosmetic science research presented at the Congress allowed us to identify a plant ingredient (Althaea Rosea stem cells extract) that displays senolytic activity (i.e., selective elimination of senescent cells) in human dermal fibroblasts (HDF) models.
During IFSCC 2023 Congress, we presented three key innovations targeting product efficacy and advancements around skin’s circadian rhythms, Artificial Intelligence and plant microbiome:
Altheostem™
This innovation targeted cellular senescence as a blooming field for outstanding discoveries. As the accumulation of senescent cells over time is correlated with visible signs of advanced skin age, we presented an ingredient that targets the elimination of skin senescent cells via Althaea Rosea stem cells.
Research shows that Althaea Rosea stem cells produce a clear rejuvenating effect in vivo, significantly improving the radiance, elasticity, and the thickness of the skin, promoting a decrease in volume and depth of wrinkles and a reduction in the estimated age.
An active ingredient with skin anti-aging properties based on the selective elimination of senescent cells.
Circanblue™
Our cosmetic science research seeked to look more deeply into the cumulative small disturbances that affect the biorhythm of skin cells. As such, we observed a desynchronization in phase and amplitude of the curves part of their circadian cycle in keratinocytes that had been overexposed to blue light.
The work presented in IFSCC showed our study of the effect of a postbiotic ingredient (Lactococcus lactis ferment lysate) to revert this desynchronization.
Sealrose™
This haircare innovation presented at IFSCC 2023 looked to explore hair fiber damage issues and solve them through active-based natural ingredients extracted from marine macroalgae. More specifically, we looked at how damaging treatments and products open the scales of hair cuticles, and then unveiled an innovative fruit oily extract that is able to protect the lipid surface and thus prevent the damage caused by chemical factors.
Plant endophytes for the future of beauty: Shiloxome™
Amongst the exciting innovations in the field of natural cosmetic science in 2023, the exploration of endophytes was particularly interesting. These symbiotic microorganisms living inside plants and promoting beneficial effects on their growth and development present an enormous potential to produce bioactive phytochemicals and, as such, can become an interesting source of high-valued natural compounds, while preventing the overexploitation of their host plants.
As we were proud to share at IFSCC 2023, at Provital we have successfully developed a novel platform for the isolation and biotechnological production of plant endophytes as a sustainable source for natural and traceable active cosmetic ingredients.
Moreover, we are expanding the public scientific knowledge on this platform by presenting the amazing multi-omic results obtained for the first of these endophyte-based ingredients, Shiloxome™, in the 2024 IFSCC edition.
All in all, Provital’s contributions to cosmetic science and the IFSCC gathering point towards the same direction: our commitment to push the boundaries of cosmetic science, aiming
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