Glycolic acid on dry skin: effects and a natural alternative

Understanding the effects of glycolic acid on dry skin is key to developing personalized formulas that match each skin type. As the era of ‘one-size-fits-all’ cosmetics comes to an end, so should the understanding of certain ingredients such as glycolic acid as “universally good”.

In fact, while it is widely recognized as beneficial for exfoliation and improving skin texture, looking at the effects of glycolic acid on dry skin proves how uniform cosmetic formulas simply don’t meet consumer needs anymore.

In this context, offering alternatives for glycolic acid on dry skin ensures solutions that are relevant and cater different skin type specific needs. By delving into the options among natural alternatives for exfoliation, brands can open new doors to formulas that surprise consumers and align with their preferences.

What is glycolic acid

Glycolic acid is a type of alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from sugarcane that has become widely used in skincare. Its success is based on its small molecular size, which allows it to penetrate the skin effectively, thus performing profound exfoliation that isn’t based on rough or mechanical methods.

What does glycolic acid do to your skin?

Technically, what glycolic acid does is help break the bonds between dead skin cells located in the outer layers of skin. 

Thanks to its small molecular size, glycolic acid can penetrate deeper into the skin and thus multiply its effects, speeding up cell turnover and bringing fresher, younger cells to the surface.

With this working principle in mind, here are some of the key benefits of glycolic acid on skin:

1. Exfoliation: glycolic acid manages to remove the outer layer of dead skin cells by breaking down the bonds that hold them together on the surface of the skin. The result is fresher, smoother skin that presents a more even texture.
2. Cell turnover: by promoting this type of chemical exfoliation, glycolic acid accelerates the skin’s natural cell turnover process. In turn, this translates into a series of benefits, such as the reduction of fine lines, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation and other skin irregularity issues.
3. Hydration: the ingredient can also attract and retain moisture, improving the skin’s hydration levels. However, as we see below, the exfoliating action can counterbalance this effect for individuals with dry skin.
4. Stimulation of collagen production: glycolic acid is also known for stimulating fibroblasts in the dermis to produce more collagen, thus improving skin firmness and elasticity.

Is glycolic acid good for dry skin? The side effects 

While glycolic acid has been praised for its outstanding exfoliating effects, the implications of glycolic acid on dry skin are less straightforward. In fact, it’s precisely the strong exfoliation properties of glycolic acid and its ability to penetrate deeply into the skin that can be especially concerning for individuals with dry skin.

Simply put, dry skin can react more intensely to glycolic acid, an issue that is especially problematic when the ingredient is used in high concentrations. For those with dry or sensitive skin, a high concentration of glycolic acid can be irritating and may lead to some of these issues:

• Increased dryness, as the intense exfoliation of glycolic acid may strip away natural oils from the skin
• Irritation and redness, as its exfoliating capacities might be too intense for this type of skin
• A pronounced burning sensation upon application
• Making skin more susceptible to sunburn, thus requiring extra protection from UV rays
• In cases of over-exfoliation or the use of high-concentration glycolic acid, skin can end up flaking and peeling
• Increased water loss and further dryness due to the disruption of the skin barrier. 

Apibreeze™: the natural alternative to glycolic acid for dry skin

PHAs (polyhydroxy acids) stand out in the quest for finding an effective alternative for glycolic acid for dry skin. In fact, PHAs present some of the key benefits of AHAs, including:

• They are effective keratolytics that refine the stratum corneum via a calcium ion chelation process
• They strengthen the epidermis by boosting cellular cohesion
• They redensify the dermis via their action on hyaluronic acid and collagen synthesis

However, the fundamental difference with glycolic acid is that PHAs present a larger molecular size. This means their action is more progressive, penetrating the skin more slowly, and thus avoiding the inflammatory reactions often associated with AHAs. 

On top of this, they also present a substantial capacity to retain water in the skin, while offering an antioxidant effect similar to that of vitamins E and C.

This is where Apibreeze™ comes in. Designed to become an all-round hydroxy acid for progressive exfoliation, it aligns with slow beauty standards that prioritize long-term benefits and natural ingredients that are kind both for the skin and the planet.

This active ingredient comprises biotechnological PHAs and multi-flower honey and combines the restoring benefits of hydroxy acids, and the warming, protective effects of honey. 

As such, it represents the right alternative to glycolic acid for sensitive skin, achieving the same benefits while avoiding irritation even for skin conditions such as dermatitis/rosacea, sensitive scalps with dandruff or comedonal acne in adult skin.