Nail growth and strengthener: the science-backed, natural ingredient to target it

The use of nail growth and strengthener treatments is a key focus for individuals who frequently experience nail brittleness and splitting. As nail polishment has been considered a key beauty feature, the right nail growth and strengthening can also be understood for the psychological impact these problems can have on individuals.

Nails are, however, more than aesthetic features: they serve key protection functions, and can serve as a mirror in which overall well-being is reflected. In this context, understanding the science of nail growth and the causes of common nail conditions acts as the essential foundations on which to build successful nail growth and strengthener formulations.

Understanding the science of nail growth

Nails are a very specialized skin appendix that are mainly composed of α-keratin and cysteine and arginine as the main amino acids, as well as calcium. 

Nail structure has been described as follows: 

• The plate, which presents three different layers (dorsal, intermediate and central) and constitutes the visible part of nails.
• The proliferative matrix, which is responsible for nail growth associated with nail stem cells, characterized by their quick cycles and proliferative capacities (Pulawska-Czub et al., 2021). 
• The bed, which is a soft tissue located beneath the matrix and contains blood vessels and nerves responsible for providing nutrients and sensation to the nail.
• The cuticle, a thin layer of skin at the base of the nail plate which protects the area from infections and helps anchor the nail to the finger.

This description evokes the harmonious ecosystem where, in normal conditions, nails grow continuously and can fully regenerate after removal. More specifically, the natural nail growth cycle is divided into 4 stages:

• Anagen phase, where active growth from the nail matrix occurs (can last around 2 – 3 months). In this stage, healthy newly-formed cells keratinize and harden as they move upwards to then form the nail plate. 
• Catagen phase, where growth slows down (typically takes around 2 weeks)-
• Telogen phase, characterized as a resting stage (which can take up to 3 to 4 months in fingernails and longer for toenails).

Looking at the nail growth cycle, ensuring the health of the nail matrix stands out as the fundamental first step. However, there are multiple factors can affect this process:

• Genetics have an influence on nail thickness and growth rates.
• External Factors such as contact with harsh chemicals, excessive water exposure, and nail trauma, which can all weaken nails and hinder their growth.
• Nutrition and a balanced diet that is rich in vitamins, minerals and protein, all fundamental for nail growth. 

DiBiase and Tarleton (2019) have looked at how “micronutrient deficiencies commonly lead to cutaneous abnormalities involving the skin, hair, and nails”, and have mentioned “the B vitamins riboflavin, niacin, pyridoxine, biotin, and vitamin B12”. Research has also looked at how daily biotin supplementation “demonstrated a 25 percent increase in nail plate thickness in patients with brittle nails” (Hochman, 1993).

When looking at nail strength, it’s important to understand that physical properties of nails (hardness, flexibility and elasticity) depend on a wide array of factors, including their amino acid content, their water content, the orientation of keratin filaments and the thickening of their cell membranes. 

Common nail conditions and their causes

Nails are often a reflection of overall body health. As such, persistent nail problems can sometimes signal underlying conditions that should be treated independently after consulting with a healthcare professional. Some of the most common issues regarding nail health involve:

• Brittleness and splitting: nail fragility is a common cosmetic issue, as it affects up to 20% of the population, and has a particular impact on women after the age of 50. Brittle nails are characterized by “disorganisation of keratin filaments, protein and lipid structure” (Lee and Lipner, 2022). It has been described how nail brittleness “may be a consequence of factors that alter nail plate production and/or factors that damage the nail plate” (Chessa et al., 2020), with these factors including normal aging processes, dietary deficiencies, infections, inflammatory diseases, minor trauma and friction or exposure to chemical agents.
• Other nail conditions:
  • Onycholysis: characterized by the separation of the nail plate from the nail bed, this condition exhibits a wide range of causes (from trauma to fungal infections, psoriasis, allergic reactions, or hyperthyroidism). Treatments should address the underlying cause.
  • Beau’s lines: these emerge as horizontal dents or depressions in one or more nails, which can happen because of a severe injury, illness, Raynaud’s disease or exposure to cold temperatures. What these symptoms have in common is they disrupt normal nail growth. Again, managing the underlying condition is key to promote nail growth and thus have these dents disappear.
  • Koilonychia: also known as spoon nails, these are nails that have developed a concave shape. They can be an indication of iron deficiency anemia, hemochromatosis, or nail trauma. The underlying cause should be corrected to see improvements.
  • Leukonychia: a common condition that involves the appearance of white spots or lines on nails. They can be caused by minor trauma or nutritional deficiencies, as well as some systemic illnesses. Because this condition doesn’t affect nail growth, spots typically disappear as nails grow.
  • Nail psoriasis: this condition involves a wide range of symptoms (from small depressions, to discoloration, nail thickening or the separation of nails from the nail bed). It takes place as an autoimmune response, and should be addressed via topical treatments or systemic treatments for severe cases.
  • Fungal Infections: nails that are thicker, discolored, crumble or separate from the nail bed may suffer from a fungal infection, which typically enters the nail through minor injuries. Topical or oral antifungal medications are a common remedy, with nail debridement or removal being used for severe cases. 

Nail care best practices

Based on the causes of common nail conditions and issues such as brittlement, a correct nail care routine should consider the following:

• Minimize prolonged water exposure, which can harm and swell the nail plate. This may involve wearing protective gloves for tasks that involve water exposure, such as dishwashing.
• Hydrate and maintain an adequate nutrient intake. Two factors that are key for overall health and also connected with nail health. Correct hand moisturization via hand creams can also be beneficial to keep nails properly hydrated.
• Avoid harsh trimming, cutting nails too short or filing in one direction only, which can all be the source of potential harm.
• Be mindful about products applied on nails. For nail treatments, choose non-toxic products and avoid those containing harsh chemicals. Alcohol-based hand sanitizers can dry out nails, as well as exposure to cleaning products or inadequate shampoo formulas.

The same caution should be applied to the use of gel and acrylic nails. While these can be appealing options for enhancing nails’ appearance, limiting these applications and giving nails a break between treatments are key strategies to ensure nail health, as “the methods used to prepare nails for decoration and all methods of removing the applied preparations damage healthy nail plates” (Batory, 2019). In this regard, the FDA guide for safety concerning nail care products can act as a reference for investigating product labels carefully and opt out of harmful ingredients.

Riceker™: a natural nail growth and strengthening solution

Riceker™ is a natural rice extract developed by Provital that promotes nail growth and strength by targeting the inner mechanism of the nail cycle.

Based on a water soluble rice extract, the ingredient builds on well-known traditional beauty practices that have employed rice for skin and hair health, and applies this capacity for nail growth.

As nails are primarily composed of α-keratin (with cystine and arginine as the main amino acids) Riceker™ works by increasing the expression of important keratins for nail mechanical strength and nail plate growth, especially KRT1, KRT5, and KRT16.

In vitro testing has shown how Riceker™ increases the genic expression of these keratins, leading to the following results:

• Increased nail keratinization thus strengthening the nail plate and its barrier function.
• Promoting nail growth.
• Increasing the anchorage of the nail plate to the nail bed.

As such, Riceker™ stands out as an effective treatment option for targeting nail growth and strength from the very source, all while using natural ingredients.

Nail growth and strengthener, the natural way

As seen above, a wide array of factors are behind nail health, growth and strength, which represents yet another indication of the holistic approach to beauty that is taking the industry by storm. 

Once underlying conditions are ruled out or treated, there are some key practices that can promote nail health, such as avoiding harsh chemicals or excessive water exposure. Alongside these, treatments that boost keratin expression have a direct impact on the inner mechanisms of nail growth and strengthening. 

The availability of ingredients such as the science-backed rice extract Riceker™ offers a natural approach to promoting nail growth, thus aligning with current preferences for effective plant-based formulas.

For further information or insights on this topic, please do not hesitate to contact our team of experts, who are available to provide guidance and support in selecting the most suitable solutions for your requirements.