Natural moisturizing factors and hydrocolloid matrix: a key match for skin hydration

A renewed look into natural moisturizing factors and their importance is gaining prevalence as new scientific research looks into the prevalence of dry skin concerns. 

It’s generally accepted that almost every human will experience dry skin in the course of their life. More specifically, it’s been found that prevalence of dry skin can reach up to 60% in middle-aged and elderly populations, of whom a fifth present Generalized Dry Skin (Mekić MD et al., 2019).

In this context, maintaining skin hydration is a key strategy to prevent dry skin and its associated conditions. In fact, proper moisturization is crucial for maintaining skin elasticity, smoothness and preventing the formation of wrinkles, ultimately serving as an ally for overall skin wellness and resilience. 

In light of this importance, current research initiatives are opening the door to understanding the key role of natural moisturizing factors (NMFs) and hydrocolloids in achieving and maintaining optimal hydration. Both based on powerful water-attraction capacities at a molecular level, they’re unlocking new perspectives and formulation opportunities that offer unmatched hydration efficacies. 

Understanding natural moisturizing factors: nature’s ultimate hydrators

What are NMFs?

NMFs are a complex mixture of water-attracting compounds naturally found in the skin’s stratum corneum (the outermost layer). A wide variety of components are included in the list of NMFs, such as:

• Amino acids 
• Lactic acid
• Urea
• Sodium PCA
• Sugars
• Minerals

What they all have in common is their capacity to attract and hold water molecules, regulating the water content of the stratum corneum, a fundamental step for preserving its physiologic barrier function. From the aesthetic point of view, NMFs are also key to promote skin suppleness and elasticity, again linked to their hydration capacities.

In order to do so, natural moisturizing factors attract moisture from the air and bind it to the skin. More specifically and as explained by Baldwin and Del Rosso (2024), natural moisturizing factor production starts with profilaggrin. This important precursor protein breaks down into filaggrin and interacts with keratin to eventually undergo a proteolysis process in the upper layers of the stratum corneum, ultimately forming NMFs like those mentioned above. 

The Impact of natural moisturizing factor deficiencies

Deficiencies in NMFs are a key cause that contributes to dry skin (Rawlings et al., 1994) and thus also to the various associated symptoms, which include skin roughness, itching, flaking or irritation.

Depleted levels of natural moisturizing factors can have various sources, including environmental conditions, aging processes, use of inadequate cleansing products or loss-of-function mutations in the FLG gene, which encodes profilaggrin and filaggrin. 

This, in turn, can translate into a diversity of skin disorders:

• Xerosis: this is the dermatological condition that describes dry skin. Characterized by depleted levels of NMFs, this condition means skin loses its ability to retain moisture, leading to dryness, roughness, and itching.
• Atopic dermatitis: also known as eczema, this represents a complex condition in which skin barrier is compromised, and NMF deficiencies play a significant role as they impair the skin’s ability to retain moisture. Patients with atopic dermatitis have shown “significantly lower levels of monomeric filaggrin and NMF” (Engebretsen et al., 2018) compared to healthy skin.
• Ichthyosis: the term describes a group of disorders characterized by excessive scaling of the skin. Some forms of ichthyosis are associated with filaggrin gene mutations, while the disorder has been described as a condition where “keratohyalin granules and filaggrin are reduced in or absent from the epidermis of affected individuals (Fleckman et al., 1987), with keratohyalin granules being key in the formation of natural moisturizing factors (NMFs) as they contain profilaggrin. 
• Psoriasis: generally speaking, psoriasis involves abnormal skin cell turnover, leading to thickened, scaly patches. This rapid turnover can disrupt stratum corneum hydration and NMF production, so that NMF levels are “significantly decreased” in skin with psoriasis (Takahashi et al., 2014).

Looking at these conditions and their links to NMFs, incorporating natural moisturizing factor capacities into hydration formulations addresses critical deficiencies that characterize these skin moisture imbalances, mitigating their symptoms and promoting overall skin health.

How NMFs complement specific skin types

Dry skin

While they’re not technically classified as NMFs, humectants such as hyaluronic acid and glycerin are analogous in the sense that they are hygroscopic, drawing water from the environment and deeper skin layers into the epidermis. 

This boosts skin hydration directly at the surface, making it feel softer and more supple, and provides an effective aid for dry skin moisturizing. The results include an improved skin barrier that effectively retains water, all without clogging pores or leaving a greasy residue.

Oily skin

Amino acids like arginine, glycine or proline can help regulate sebum production and improve hydration without clogging pores. These NMFs balance hydration while supporting healthy skin barrier function and regulating sebum production. Because amino acids are water-soluble and lightweight, they don’t clog pores or contribute to acne, two key conditions for those with oily skin.

Sensitive skin

The soothing and anti-inflammatory properties of ingredients like allantoin can prove to be a powerful ally for moisturizing sensitive skin.

Allantoin is a naturally occurring compound produced through the oxidation of uric acid and present in plants like comfrey, while also synthesized for skincare use. By attracting and retaining moisture, allantoin provides a similar action to the role of NMFs. For instance, comfrey root extract, which contains allantoin and other compounds, has showed promise in reducing skin irritation (Savić et al., 2015).

Mature Skin

Part of the skin’s natural moisturizing factors, PCA presents a key potential in enhancing cell renewal, promoting hydration and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

PCA is highly hygroscopic and can thus provide a deep hydration that restores moisture balance and improves skin barrier function while also diminishing the visibility of fine lines and wrinkles. But its benefits for skin go beyond that, as it also promotes skin turnover and improves cellular function by supporting the skin barrier.

Hydrocolloids: the smart delivery system for NMFs and deep hydration treatments

Hydrocolloids are a type of polymer that is able to absorb water and form a gel-like substance. To understand their action, it’s possible to picture a protective barrier created on the skin’s surface that prevents moisture loss and promotes a moist environment favorable in certain scenarios, including skin healing. 

Hydrocolloids have been used widely in skincare, including applications such as:

• Sheet masks that effectively deliver hydrating ingredients by creating an occlusive environment for enhanced absorption.
• Gels and creams that act as thickening and stabilizing agents.
• Acne patches to absorb excess sebum and impurities and promote a faster healing of blemishes.

The following stand out among the different types of hydrocolloids used in skincare:

• Sodium Carboxymethylcellulose (CMC): a thickening agent made from treating cellulose.
• Gelatin: made from collagen, a protein present in animal bones, cartilage and skin.
• Pectin: obtained from plant sources like apples
• Alginate: obtained from seaweed

Hydrafence™: a nature-inspired breakthrough in hydration

Hydrafence™ emerges as a novel active ingredient to promote skin hydration by harnessing natural moisturizing factors and an innovative hydrocolloid matrix of rice amylopectin. 

Based on a calcium-rich fraction extracted from the Lithothamnion calcareum algae, this ingredient focuses on taking hydration to the next level by providing a multi-level approach:

• Enhances barrier function. Hydrafence™ modulates the expression of genes involved in the formation of the stratum corneum, tight junction, and antimicrobial barriers, strengthening the skin’s defenses against moisture loss and external aggressors.
• Boosts ceramide production. This natural ingredient stimulates the skin’s natural ability to generate ceramides, essential components of the skin barrier.
• Activates natural hydration mechanisms. It modulates the expression of genes associated with hydration, such as filaggrin, caspase-14, and aquaporin-9, enhancing the skin’s natural moisturizing processes.
• Improves cellular cohesion. It also upregulates the production of desmocollin-1 and desmoglein-1, proteins responsible for cell-to-cell adhesion, resulting in a stronger and more resilient epidermis.

This ingredient’s action has been backed up by several testing protocols:

• In vitro tests have shown Hydrafence™ stimulates the skin’s natural processes for a fully reinforced barrier by modulating gene expression in keratinocytes
• Ex vivo testing has shown it increases the cohesion of the upper layers of the epidermis, restores the skin’s ability to generate its own ceramides (reinforcing the barrier function) and fights external aggressions thanks to its “triple defense” action.
• In vivo tests found Hydrafence™ is involved in:
  • Increasing skin hydration for up to 120 hours.
  • Reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
  • Improving skin barrier function and recovery from damage.
  • Enhancing skin smoothness and sensory properties. These represented innovative testing protocols which included the use of Touchy Finger®, a technological device that objectively measures skin smoothness and which provided proof of the actual improvement in the perceived smoothness of skin treated with Hydrafence™.

As such, Hydrafence™ emerges as a comprehensive, natural ingredient that addresses hydration from an innovative, science-backed perspective: one that focuses on natural moisturizing factors as key to promote hydration and overall skin health.

Hydrafence™: sustainability meets skincare innovation

The state-of-the-art skincare innovation in Hydrafence™ has been developed to also match growing concerns about the environmental impact of cosmetic ingredients. 

This ingredient employs rice by-products and sustainably harvested Lithothamnion calcareum, aligning with the UN Sustainable Development Goals, especially SDG 2 (Zero Hunger) and SDG 12 (Responsible Production and Consumption).

Additionally, the natural origin of this ingredient makes it vegan-friendly and suitable for clean beauty formulations.

Hydrafence™ thus stands out for its effectiveness while offering a natural-based solution for a holistic, sustainable approach to hydration that goes beyond moisturizing and facilitates barrier strengthening, protection, and improved skin texture and appearance.

Embrace the future of hydration via formulations that target natural moisturizing factors

As seen across the article, a focus on natural moisturizing factors makes a difference in developing advanced cosmetic products for a wide range of skin conditions. 

Experiencing HYDRAFENCE™ is an invitation to feel the transformative power of this innovative ingredient for dry skin and conditions associated with depleted NMFs. Get in touch with Provital to learn more about HYDRAFENCE™ and other innovative ingredients at the forefront of cosmetic science.