Moisturizing mask: benefits and innovative formulations

The moisturizing mask has enjoyed widespread attention in recent times, becoming one of the most popular cosmetic formats. Building from being perceived as an unconventional approach to hydration, the moisturizing mask provides specific benefits that have pushed this product into mainstream preferences. 

However, movements in how the environmental impact of single-use products is perceived have meant the solution may have lost some of its initial momentum. It’s precisely in this context where major opportunities to innovate have arisen for the moisturizing mask format.

What does a moisturizing mask do?

Moisturizing is a fundamental cosmetic treatment with long-lasting effects on skin health. From reconstructing the stratum corneum and the skin’s barrier function, to regulation of potential desquamation, moisturizing treatments provide crucial foundations for a skin that is flexible, bright and resilient.

When looking at mask formulas in particular, it represents a tool for delivering actives for the skin. However, and as opposed to other formats like serums or creams, the mask presents an exclusivity: it’s sealing effect, via an actual physical barrier that envelops the skin and seals in the positive components in the mask. As such, the skin is presented with an intense opportunity to absorb the ingredients, thus pushing the product’s efficiency.

In the case of a moisturizing mask, these products are designed to replenish moisture in skin, while also nourishing it and improving skin’s natural barrier. Generally speaking, there are two cosmetic approaches to achieve this:

• Include active ingredients that simulate the action of the skin’s natural humectants  (known as NMF or Natural Moisturizing Factor) or of the skin barrier (such as occlusive agents or emollients including as vaseline, oils…). This approach often results in good immediate moisturizing, although is sometimes considered as a somewhat “artificial” method, as skin is moisturized by an external agent.
• The stimulation of skin’s own moisturizing mechanisms. In this case, the moisturizing effect is typically not as immediate, but generates an structural improvement of the epidermis through skin’s natural agents, providing a deeper, more comprehensive and durable action.

The rising sustainability considerations around the moisturizing mask 

While face masks have seen value growth in recent years, research has shown momentum around this format is slowing down due to sustainability considerations. With the rise of consumers that are motivated by sustainability in cosmetics, the industry is needing to grapple with several widespread formats and methodologies, and the face mask is one of them. This is especially true of sheet face masks products, as they involve “single-use” masks that concern environmentally-conscious consumers. In fact, research by Mintel confirms the mask format only saw a 5% growth in 2021, having reported a 20% growth only the previous year.

These figures confirm mask solutions continue rising interest, but are likely to improve if innovations are applied to avoid the concerns we just described. As such, opportunities to innovate could involve a renovated focus on convenience that puts the moisturizing mask in the radar for new consumers.

Another key opportunity lies in further developing peel-off masks, which move away from “single-use” formats: they’re designed to be applied as liquids or gels that then dry and can be peeled off in one piece. As such, they also offer an added sustainability bonus of not needing water, and remaining a convenient option.

In the contest of sustainability , night masks represent a fertile ground for innovation: it is a new type of cosmetic formulation that must be applied before sleeping and, thanks to an extended periodr of contact with skinIt can be largely absorbed and moisturizes the skin . 

Aquaextrem™: the natural active ingredient to reimagine the moisturizing mask

Aquaextrem™ is the plant-based active ingredient allowing brands to boost their innovation in the moisturizing mask format. 

Consisting of an active fraction obtained from the roots of rhubarb (Rheum rhaponticum), this natural active ingredient activates the natural mechanisms of skin moisturization through the activation of PPAR. As such, it presents an outstanding opportunity to push moisturizing mask efficiency, promoting lasting hydration that starts from within.

In vitro testing of Aquaextrem™  has shown outstanding results:

• A good affinity to bind to PPARγ and act as a natural agonist
• Increase in the levels of filaggrin and involucrin strength and cohesion of the stratum corneum, barrier function improvement and recovery of proper skin moisturization
• Boost of epidermal cell cohesion, improving the integrity of the stratum corneum and the barrier function
• Improves the lipid barrier of the skin, protecting the body from the exterior and preventing skin dehydration 
• Triples skin level of ceramides

These results have additionally been augmented by outcomes in our in vivo testing, which found Aquaextrem™:

• Enhances the natural hydration mechanisms of the skin and achieves deep and lasting moisturization
• Repairs the skin barrier function, so that water losses are minimized and keeping skin moisturized
• Regulates skin desquamation and restores moisturization levels

To better guide you in your joourney towards the formulation of an original and effective moisturising mask, at Provital we provide our clients with ideas for advanced formulations like our “Happy Moisture Sleeping Mask” using Aquaextrem™ amongst other hydrating active ingredients:

Phase	INCI / PCPC			w/w %
11	Aqua (water)			73.340
12	Pentylene Glycol			3,000
13	Hydroxyethylacrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl TaurateCopolymer, Polyisobutene, PEG-7 TrimethylolpropaneCoconut Ether			2,000
14	Sodium Polyacrylate, Dimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane,Trideceth-6, PEG/PPG 18/18 Dimethicone			1,000
15	Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin			0,700
21	Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil	Sesame Oil	Provital	4,000
22	Triisostearin			1,000
23	Parfum (Fragrance)			0,120
24	Polymethylsilsesquioxane			1,000
31	Aqua (Water), Glycerin, Hydrolyzed CaesalpiniaSpinosa Gum, Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum, SodiumBenzoate, Potassium Sorbate	Hydromanil HGL MS	Provital	3,000
32	Glycereth-26			3,000
33	Propanediol, Aqua (Water), Rheum RhaponticumRoot Extract	Aquaxtrem(™)	Provital	1,500
34	Aqua (Water), Glycerin, Rosa Centifolia FlowerExtract, Jasminum Officinale (Jasmine) FlowerExtract, Bellis Perennis (Daisy) Flower Extract,Xanthan Gum, Sodium Benzoate, PotassiumSorbate	Whitesense(™)	Provital	0.500
35	Isopentyldiol, Pentylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol			3,000
41	Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer			2,500
51	Aqua (Water), Sodium Hydroxide			0,300
61	Bismuth Oxychloride, Mica, Iron Oxides (CI 77491)			0,040
				100,00

Want to know more about this inspirational formulation with Aquaextrem™? Register on our website to get all the technical and formulation process information you need.