Naturally tan skin: how to achieve it naturally

The allure of a sun-kissed glow and the desire for naturally tan skin has been on the cosmetic’s agenda for decades now. However, recent shifts in consumer preferences indicate that the pursuit of tanned skin is now subject to nuances related to new concerns around safe sun exposure.

These concerns are explored by current industry research, such as Mintel’s look into a movement labeled as “sunxiety”, which found out 72% of sunscreen users in the US admit that they should be applying more skin protection than they currently are.

The risks associated with traditional tanning methods like sunbeds and excessive sun exposure are now part of public knowledge, including the potential of developing skin cancer and premature aging.

As such, opportunities emerge for a safer and more natural approach to achieving naturally tan skin by understanding the science behind skin pigmentation and resorting to formulas that prioritize safety.

The science of skin pigmentation: the role of melanin and the stages of tanning

Skin pigmentation or suntan can be defined as the darkening of skin in response to ultraviolet light exposure.

While human skin color is shaped by numerous influences, melanin can be described as the most important. This natural pigment’s main role is protecting skin cells from the harmful effects of UV radiation. Its presence is directly linked with skin color, so that people that have more melanin naturally also have darker skin, and vice versa.

However, it’s also important to understand that melanin is divided into two categories: 

• Eumelanin (brown/black): it offers the most comprehensive protection against UV radiation by absorbing it, and is associated with dark hair, skin and eyes. 
• Pheomelanin (yellow/red): it provides less UV protection compared to eumelanin, and is associated with red hair and light skin. 

The ratio of eumelanin compared to pheomelanin determines the different skin types, hair and eye color. It is also an important measure when looking at skin health after UV exposure. As such, Individuals “with a higher ratio of pheomelanin to eumelanin in hair have higher rates of melanoma, and work in mouse and cell culture shows that pheomelanin generates excess free radicals after UVR exposure” (Hennessy, 2005).

When looking at naturally tan skin, it’s essential to acknowledge melanogenesis, that is, the process that generates melanin. The process begins at the melanocytes, the specialized cells in charge of producing melanin and then transferring it to keratinocytes. The process also involves melanosomes, organelles in which melanin is synthesized through a complex set of biochemical reactions that involve converting enzymes such as tyrosine into melanin pigments. 

Once the melanosomes are mature, they are transported from the cell body of the melanocyte along dendrites to reach the surrounding keratinocytes. Melanosomes are then distributed along the skin surface.

Factors that influence skin tanning

• Genetics: genetics play a significant role in an individual’s natural skin color and his or her ability to tan, as melanin pigmentation is regulated by a complex interaction of genes, such as MC1R, ASIP, and POMC. Different variations in these genes can influence skin color and its tanning response.
• UV exposure: UV radiation from the sun stimulates melanogenesis, which leads to increased melanin production and skin darkening. But UVA and UVB radiation work differently, as they are responsible for immediate and delayed tanning respectively. The need for sun protection products arises from the potential risks of excessive exposure to this radiation.
• Skin type: the Fitzpatrick skin type classification system was developed to categorize skin based on its reaction to sun exposure and its potential to tan, burn or develop skin conditions related to sun exposure. It presents 6 skin types (from I to VI). As such, individuals with lighter skin types (I and II) tend to burn easily and tan minimally; those with darker skin types (V and VI) tan easily and rarely burn.

The phases of tanning and their role in how to naturally tan skin safely

The different phases of tanning are also crucial to understand how to safely achieve naturally tan skin:

• Immediate tanning: it occurs shortly after UV exposure and is linked to existing melanin in skin, rather than increased production (Tadokoro et al., 2005). It’s non-photoprotective.
• Delayed tanning: this involves the gradual darkening of skin, which takes place several days after UV exposure and is linked to increased melanin production by melanocytes.

This is precisely where a key advancement emerges to understand how to develop naturally tan skin safely. By using an active compound that stimulates melanogenesis after UV exposure, delayed tanning may be accelerated, thus producing faster and safer skin pigmentation.

Such is the case of Tanositol™, a novel plant ingredient capable of activating, intensifying and prolonging skin tanning by activating second messengers involved in melanin synthesis. 

Tips for achieving a natural tan safely

• Sun protection using sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher and reapplying it every two hours. Wearing protective clothing and seeking shade when the sun is strongest are also fundamental to protect skin.
• Gradual exposure to sun allows the skin to adapt and produce melanin without burning. 
• Exfoliation before sun exposure can help remove dead skin cells, allowing for a more even tan.
• Hydration and diet intake also play a role in overall skin health and are thus important for enhancing the natural mechanisms for naturally tan skin. This involves drinking plenty of water, especially during and after sun exposure, and moisturizing. Additionally, research suggests that consuming foods rich in beta-carotene, lycopene, and vitamins C and E may contribute to a healthier tan. However, it’s important to understand that dietary changes alone cannot replace sun protection measures.

Tanositol™: a plant-based approach to naturally tan skin 

Tanositol™ emerges as an effective natural alternative to traditional tanning methods. A plant-derived ingredient, it works by activating second messengers involved in melanin synthesis, thereby intensifying and prolonging skin tanning.

In order to do so, the ingredient works by regulating the Diacylglycerol/Protein kinase C (DAG/PKC) pathway, which was demonstrated by P.R. Gordon and B.A. Gilchrest in 1989 and is currently accepted as one of the most important tanning mechanisms. More specifically, the ingredient works by stimulating DAG release, a physiological mediator (second messenger) in the skin response to irradiation and subsequent tanning.

The in-vivo efficacy assay results of Tanositol™ demonstrate its tan-accelerating and tan-prolonging effects:

• It increased tanning by 28% as compared to placebo. A statistically significant difference which supports the efficacy of this active compound as a tan-intensifier.
• It maintained skin tanning for a longer time, with differences between Tanositol™ and placebo being statistically significant: on the placebo-treated areas, skin tanning faded by 16%, while on the TANOSITOLTM treated areas, it faded half that much.
• While with the placebo treatment, evident tan-fading occurred, the group treated with Tanositol™ maintained 50% more tanning, positioning it as a tan-prolonging active compound.

This novel plant-based ingredient is thus a valuable addition to diverse formulations looking to naturally tan skin: from sunscreens, to tan accelerators, after-sun products and day creams. Additionally, it shows promising results to protect skin from sun-induced aging, thanks to its capacity to activate the synthesis of collagen.

Achieve a naturally tan skin by activating your body’s own melanin synthesis

As seen across the article, achieving a natural tan skin safely involves allowing for delayed tanning mechanisms and melanin synthesis to take place through gradual and limited sun exposure that prioritizes protection. 

In this quest, ingredients such as Tanositol™ represent a natural ally for enhancing skin tanning.

This must also take into account new narratives around skin tanning. Embracing the natural skin tones that encompass the rich variety of human skin types is the new normal, all while prioritizing skin health and consciously employing natural ingredients for cosmetic purposes.

For further information or insights on this topic, please do not hesitate to contact our team of experts, who are available to provide guidance and support in selecting the most suitable solutions for your requirements.