Adaptogenic mechanisms and their applications on skincare

Research around the adaptogenic mechanism has gained momentum as adaptogens emerge as a promising category of ingredients within the realm of natural wellbeing and natural skincare. 

Derived from plants, herbs, and mushrooms, adaptogens can broadly be defined as a spectrum of substances that help the body adapt to stress and maintain balance. While their implications for health treatments are many (from promoting recovery and exercise excellence to managing chronic stress), the use of adaptogenics like ashwagandha in the beauty industry is emerging as a key trend. 

Mintel’s ‘’The Future of Facial Skincare 2024’ highlights how 40% of 18 – 24 year olds in the UK have heard of adaptogens, with 10% knowing what they are. Additionally, searches for adaptogens have increased by 22% in 2024 compared to the previous year, while Grand View Research foresees their market value to expand at a CAGR of 7% until 2030.

In this context, exploring adaptogenic mechanisms and their potential benefits for skin health represents a key opportunity for skincare innovation that is rooted in efficacy.

What does adaptogenic mean? Understanding adaptogenic mechanisms

Adaptogens comprise a wide array of natural substanceqas (typically herbs or plants) that are involved in helping the human body enhance its ability to resist and recover from physical, mental, and emotional stressors. 

While the adaptogenic mechanisms are varied, they all involve regulating various physiological processes that are linked with restoring equilibrium during stressful situations. All thanks to the rich and complex phytochemical composition of plant adaptogens.

The effects of these adaptogenic mechanisms can be understood in three main categories:

• Helping the body adapt to various stressors (physical, chemical, or emotional)
• Assisting in regulating the body’s stress hormones, such as cortisol
• Supporting immune system modulation

The adaptogenic mechanism in skin: what the science says

HPA axis modulation and skin health

As chronic stress can contribute to skin conditions like acne and premature aging (Wagner et al., 1994), the adaptogenic mechanism involved in managing stress can play a role in improving skin health. More specifically, adaptogenic mechanisms focus on regulating the hypothalamic-pituitary-adrenal (HPA) axis, which controls the body’s stress response. This includes the intake of plant adaptogens like Rhodiola rosea root (Panossian et al., 2009).

While this action is beneficial for overall health, when it comes to skin specifically, the regulation of the skin HPA-like axis has been found to repair the skin barrier and maintain skin homeostasis via “influencing the oxidative stress pathway to inhibit inflammation” and “ultimately achieving the treatment of skin diseases and the maintenance of a healthy state” (Liu et al., 2023)

Antioxidant activity

Many adaptogenic mechanisms involve antioxidant properties, which help protect the skin from damage caused by free radicals and environmental stressors.

Anti-inflammatory effects

Certain adaptogenic mechanisms aid in reducing inflammation, which is often associated with skin conditions like acne, eczema, and rosacea.

More specifically, the anti-neuroinflammatory of adaptogenic mechanisms have been found to regulate gene expression of anti- and proinflammatory cytokines, having the capacity to modulate signaling pathways (Wróbel-Biedrawa and Podolak, 2024).

Hormonal balance

Hormones (such as cortisol) have a significant impact on skin health: from accelerating skin aging, to provoking acne flare-ups or inflammation. Thus, the adaptogenic mechanisms known to promote hormonal balance also exert a positive influence on skin health, contributing to improved skin function and resilience.

For instance, Rhodiola rosea has been found to reduce the levels of corticotropin-releasing hormones via its effect on the HPA axis, including corticotropin, cortisol, and epinephrine (Todorova et al., 2021).

Immune system support

The immune system is also fundamental for general skin health and, more specifically, wound healing. Certain adaptogenic mechanisms have been found to support and regulate the immune system, including P. ginseng, which has shown results in improving glucose metabolism and moderating the immune response (Shergis et al., 2012).

Top 5 adaptogenic ingredients for skincare

Ashwagandha (Withania somnifera)

A revered adaptogenic herb in Ayurvedic medicine, ashwagandha is used for its stress-reducing properties, as it can help balance cortisol levels and reduce inflammation. 

Ginseng (Panax ginseng)

Deeply rooted in the traditional medicine systems of East Asia and North America, ginseng has been used to enhance energy levels and improve overall well-being. Applied to cosmetics, Provital’’s GINSENG EXTRACT GNBN presents anti-aging and anti-wrinkle activity via the increase of collagen synthesis, among other advantages.

Rhodiola rosea

Commonly known as golden root or rose root, rhodiola rosea originates from the cold, high-altitude regions of the Northern Hemisphere and is often used to combat fatigue and improve mental clarity. With its adaptogenic, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory properties, rhodiola rosea has become a sought-after ingredient in skincare that protects skin against environmental stress.

Licorice root (Glycyrrhiza glabra)

Licorice root contains compounds with anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, making it beneficial for soothing irritated skin and reducing hyperpigmentation. Provital’s Licorice has been found to promote anti-inflammation, stimulate the skin defenses and act as an overall skin protector.

Reishi mushroom (Ganoderma lucidum)

Indigenous to China, Japan, and Korea, the reishi mushroom has been employed as part of these cultures’ traditional medicines for millenia. Known for its immune-boosting and antioxidant properties, its adaptogenic mechanism thus supports overall skin health and wound healing.

How to incorporate adaptogens into skincare routines

Adaptogens can be incorporated into various skincare products, including serums, moisturizers, and face masks. 

When choosing adaptogenic skincare products, it’s key to look for formulations that contain high-quality, standardized extracts.

At Provital, we aim at becoming key allies for plant-based cosmetic innovation. As such, active ingredients such as our Ginseng extract,  Licorice and Turmeric extract offer a promising approach for skincare that supports the body’s stress response in order to support optimal skin health.