New hair thickening strategies based on adaptogens and ashwagandha

New hair thickening strategies are looking at one of the emerging buzzwords in the beauty and health industries: adaptogens. But before we continue exploring their future impact on the beauty industry, a short introduction is due. Adaptogens are non-toxic plant-based substances known to help the body adapt to stressors of all kinds – physical, chemical or biological – which, as a result, stabilizes our physiological processes and promotes homeostasis in our cells. These roots and herbs have been used for centuries in traditional Chinese and Ayurvedic healing practices, including the herb ashwagandha, part of Ayurveda.

The concept of adaptogens was originally established by N. V. Lazarev in 1947 to refer to a substance that was claimed to increase non-specific resistance to adverse influences like stress. The term stress is used here in the classic sense, as defined by Hans Selye, as a state of threatened homeostasis (‘Reflection Paper on the Adaptogenic Concept’, European Medicines Agency, Committee on Herbal Medicinal Products, 8 May 2008). This concept was later applied in the former Soviet Union to describe treatments that were thought to increase the resistance of organisms to biological stress.

Adaptogens used in food and drink include maca, moringa, holy basil, ashwagandha, Rhodiola Rosea and amla (Indian gooseberry), as well as certain medicinal mushrooms, for example, Chaga, reishi, and cordyceps. 

Ayurvedic herbs are commonly used in adaptogenic beauty products, and that they are also the source of many of Provital’s extracts, such as turmeric extract, ginseng extract, amla oil, and products like the Kerascalp™, which is obtained from amla.

It’s in this context where the search for a hair thickening ingredient is looking at the increasing popularity of adaptogens for developing new effective formulas that align with consumers’ preferences. 

Hair thickening and adaptogens: new strategies for hair care innovation

When it comes to adaptogens and hair thickening strategies, two key ingredients stand out for the development of innovative formulations:

Ashwagandha and hair thickening

Ayurveda is considered by many to be the oldest healing science in the world – it originated in India more than 5,000 years ago. Ayurveda is all about prevention, and so it encourages the maintenance of health through attention to balance in life, which includes proper thinking, eating habits, lifestyle and the use of herbs.

One of them is ashwagandha, an Ayurvedic herb whose root and berry have been used to make medicine for generations. Ashwagandha has a lot of uses; some people use it for improving their mental abilities, decreasing pain, swelling and inflammation. It can also be applied to the skin for treating wounds and backache and it’s also used to prevent the effects of aging. In Ayurvedic, Indian, and Unani medicine, ashwagandha is known as ‘Indian ginseng’, and it’s also used in traditional African medicine for a wide variety of ailments.

In the case of hair thickening, the effects of this root have been analyzed for potential for hair health, with results showing a “reduction in hair shedding … compared to Placebo” and improved “hair density, growth, and thickness compared to the Placebo group” (Yerram et al., 2023)

Amla and hair thickening

Amla or Indian Gooseberry) is another adaptogen that is packed with antioxidants like Vitamin C, combatting cell damage by protecting cells against oxidative stress. These fruits are also used for regulating stress via supporting the adrenal glands, which are responsible for producing cortisol. As part of Ayurveda, amla has been traditionally used to promote rejuvenation and overall health. 

Amla is the key ingredient in Kerascalp™, a key ingredient for hair thickening, hair loss and hair greying that acts by energizing the scalp for healthier, stronger hair. In vivo tests showed Kerascalp™ has the capability to induce hair growth and enhance its thickness, gloss and density, thus acting as a strong candidate for hair thickening ingredient based on the adaptogen trend.

The adaptogen renaissance and new hair thickening strategies

Although there is no widely accepted definition for what adaptogens are, and the concept still requires additional clinical and preclinical research, adaptogens like ashwagandha and other Ayurveda herbs are experiencing a revival.

Although a recent study shows that of all beauty and personal care product launches in the period between July 2015 and June 2019 only a minuscule 0.02% contain adaptogen ingredients, and these trade largely on these ingredients’ reputation for wellness or stress relief benefits in food and drink, we can expect to see them appearing in more and more beauty product launches with promise of protecting the skin against environmental stressors, as well as anti-aging features which are mentioned in 70% of adaptogen beauty products.

This is due to the simple, but undeniable fact that consumers are being increasingly interested in alternative and natural beauty and personal care products that improve their health and wellbeing.In this quest, the emergence of ingredients such as Kerascalp™ by Provital open a door for new hair thickening formulations that have shown their efficacy in strict testing protocols while also aligning with the emerging adaptogen trend.