Meet the next generation of alpha-hydroxy acids

Today’s world is full of stress. We want everything immediately – fast work, fast food, fast life. But not when it comes to age – age is what we want to slow down. And, according to Mintel, not just age. As influencers promoting conscious consumerism impact the market, and as consumers consequently slow down their purchase frequency and prioritize quality and durability over trends, we can expect to see the rise of the “slow beauty” movement.

Renewed skin is something that is connected to beauty, as well as younger appearance. Hydroxy acids help us greatly in providing better skincare and the next generation of hydroxy acids are polyhydroxy acids.

Peels – the growing trend

Lately, the demand for peels has been growing. In fact, they are in second position of non-surgical aesthetic act, just after botox and ahead of hyaluronic acid which is in third position, according to International Society of Aesthetic Plastic Surgery Global Survey 2018. Chemical peels are a trend that has recently been widely embraced in beauty skincare, and, according to research, it has a bright future. Consumers want luminous and glowing skin, but they need formulations that are gentle. That’s why new market opportunities focus on exfoliation, sebum control, and hydration, and brands should consider new formats and textures, and focus on not causing skin irritations caused by peeling effects.

Because chemical peels are one of the fastest growing non-surgical treatments in the world, and because of their glow, anti-age and hydration actions, brands should educate consumers about their benefits and non-invasiveness.

One hydroxy acid to rule them all

When it comes to reduction of wrinkles, blemishes and dark spots in beauty skincare, we often talk about acids. Some acids that offer such benefits are alpha-hydroxy acids and beta-hydroxy acids. They increase luminosity and refine the pores by stimulating cell renewal with their chemical exfoliator action that removes dead cells from the upper layers of the epidermis. But because of their secondary irritant effects, they are not the best solution for everyone. And this is where polyhydroxy acids come to light.

Polyhydroxy acids are organic carboxylic acids. They are as efficient as alpha-hydroxy acids, but without their downsides. They act in several ways – they refine the stratum corneum, strengthen the epidermis and redensify the dermis. Furthermore, the benefits of polyhydroxy acids are numerous – they have antioxidant power similar to vitamin C and E, they are not photosensitizing, are suitable for sensitive skin and areas, very versatile and, above all, highly moisturizing. They are often used, among other things, in cleansing products, daily creams, masks and exfoliation serums because of their mild effect.

Unlike other acids, polyhydroxy acids have larger molecular size so they penetrate into the skin slower and more gradually. The result of this is their high cutaneous tolerance and that’s where polyhydroxy acids have the edge over alpha-hydroxy acids. Conditions such as rosacea or atopic dermatitis are typical for very sensitive skin and polyhydroxy acids are more suitable for these types of skin. Also, there are other benefits that come with polyhydroxy acids, such as additional protective action, protection against dehydration and fighting free radicals.

Gentle and natural

For the last few decades we have become more conscious about the impacts that environment has on our skin. When it comes to cosmetics, we want to reduce undesirable effects on the skin. Tolerance, comfort and multifunctional solutions are what consumers seek the most. Polyhydroxy acids cover all of that, and whether alone or in synergy with alpha-hydroxy acids, they are the answer for anyone’s specific needs. Polyhydroxy acids are the new generation of alpha-hydroxy acids, they are equally effective, better tolerated and of natural origin. This is why they are the main part of Apibreeze^TM.

Apibreeze^TM is considered to be the kindest hydroxy acid to the skin. In vitro efficacy has been shown on many levels: the skin is renewed and stronger, more hydrated throughout all of its layers, the premature aging is prevented with increased collagen production.

The magic of sweet honey extract

Aside from polyhydroxy acids, Apibreeze^TM has been added the warm protection of multi-flower honey that has been extracted from plants in Spain’s Albera National park in Albera mountain range of Catalonia. Its sweet component complements the kindness of polyhydroxy acids and their hydrating properties and also maximize the keratolytic effects every day of the year. The bees collect honey from several different types of native flowers, including tree heath, French lavender and various species of the genera, and Provital sources it from a local artisan supplier, a family business that shares the same values of sustainability and caring for the environment, respecting nature and the traditions handed down over six generations. What’s more, the supplier is located just a few kilometres from Provital, in the parklands of the Alt Empordà, ensuring eco-friendly sourcing and minimizing the fuel consumption and carbon footprint caused by long-distance transport. Therefore, the extract comes from a thousand flowers but yet remains loyal to the same production sites and plants which makes their honey unique, and we can guarantee it. This sweet, antioxidant, antibacterial and antifungal honey adds a complementary action to the PHAs, so that the product heals the skin, purifies it, regenerates and moisturizes at once.

Two types of polyhydroxy acids are used in this product, gluconolactone and lactobionic acid, and both of them match COSMOS standards. They respond to the emerging trend for natural and organic ingredients that are kind not only to the skin, but also to our planet needs.