Antipollution skincare: the science and natural ingredients behind it

Antipollution skincare emerges as a top trend at a time when protecting the skin from environmental stressors has become a paramount concern. The increasing health concerns about the effects of exposure to pollutants (such as particulate matter, exhaust fumes and heavy metals) are exponentially incorporating their impact on skin, which include premature aging, skin damage and various skin conditions.

In this context, and as concern about the effects of pollution on skin grows among consumers, antipollution skincare offers a science-based approach to deal with these issues. 

Focusing on protecting and repairing the skin from the specific issues caused by environmental harm, a new generation of cosmetic ingredients merging natural cosmetic science and technology are exploring effective strategies for combating the detrimental effects of pollution on the skin.

The growing concern of pollution on skin health

According to the World Health Organization (WHO), air pollution is responsible for approximately 4.2 million deaths worldwide each year. Figures that are bringing the effects of pollution on health to the forefront while also sparking a flux of research looking at understanding the detrimental effects of and how to best counter them.

A review of the mechanism of action of air pollution on the skin (Puri et al., 2017) reveals air pollutants “are absorbed directly through the skin” and can lead to “disturbance in the skin barrier function leading to the development of various skin diseases” when prolonged exposure exceeds the skin’s inherent protective capacity. As such, exposure to air pollutants has been shown to play a role in the development of inflammatory skin diseases, skin accessory diseases, immune-related skin diseases, and skin tumors. (Gu et al., 2024)

More specifically, the following represent a summary of the main effects of air pollutants on skin: 

• Oxidative stress and premature aging: pollution increases oxidative stress, harming the skin’s enzymatic and non-enzymatic antioxidant capacity and generating free radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS), leading to a reaction cascade of harmful effects, including the release of pro-inflammatory mediators and complex processes that result in genetic damage and degradation (Puri et al., 2017). For instance, particulate matter (PAHs) in diesel exhaust particles have been related to mitochondria damage, leading to intracellular ROS generation (Marrot, 2018).
  As air pollutants alter the normal function of important aspects of skin health via oxidative damage, they can accelerate the aging process by impairing collagen and elastin fibers, oxidizing lipids of the skin barrier, etc.
• Inflammation: exposure to pollutants can trigger inflammation in the skin, leading to redness, irritation, and acne. For instance, PAHs have been found to stimulate inflammation through ROS-related pathways (Fernando et al., 2019; Tauchi et al., 2005). 
• Skin barrier disruption: pollutants can damage the skin’s protective barrier, increasing Trans epidermal water loss (TEWL), thus making the skin more susceptible to dryness, sensitivity, and environmental damage. For instance, a study shows that PM_2.5 concentration is directly proportional to water loss, and inversely proportional to sebum secretion (Yi et al., 2022).
• Hyperpigmentation: Pollutants can contribute to the development of dark spots and uneven skin tone. For instance, an increase in nanosize particles from traffic sources (per 475 kg per year and square km) has been associated with 20% more pigment spots on the forehead and cheeks (Puri et al., 2017).

The science behind antipollution skincare: what skincare is good for combating air pollution?

Effective antipollution skincare emerges as a solution to address the issues mentioned above caused by exposure to pollution. As such, antipollution skincare falls under the following categories:

1. Fights oxidative stress through the supply of effective antioxidants: regular application of skincare antioxidants has been found to prevent skin damage from pollution (Ferrara et al., 2020). The use of the right antioxidant formulation can neutralize lipid peroxidation and protect the lipid barrier from oxidative damage. 
2. Protects and enhances skin barrier function: a healthy skin barrier is essential for protecting the skin from environmental pollutants and maintaining hydration. Ingredients that involve ceramides, hyaluronic acid, and fatty acids can help strengthen the skin barrier and improve its resilience. As skin lipids act as unparalleled skin barrier support, formulations that look at the lipid-enhancing mechanisms for the skin provide an effective treatment in the context of antipollution skincare.
3. Cellular repair: skincare products containing ingredients that stimulate the production of skin growth factors can help stimulate cellular repair and regeneration.  , as they promote collagen production,cellular growth, proliferation, and healing in skin.
4. Chelating agents: with heavy metals having the potential of accumulating in the skin over time, some skincare ingredients (such as EDTA and citric acid) can be added to “capture” heavy metals by binding with them and removing them from the skin’s surface.

Shiloxome™: a pioneering tech-based natural ingredient for the next era of antipollution skincare

In the context of antipollution skincare, Shiloxome™ emerges as a key natural active ingredient that provides a thorough protection against the effects of pollution on the skin.

Shiloxome™ not only restores the protective function of the lipid barrier, but also acts as a powerful ally in the fight against lipid peroxidation and, as a consequence, against the visible signs of aging caused by pollution.Having been tested by an extensive and innovative in vivo lipidomic study on 60 female volunteers living in a polluted area, Provital has taken a major step forward in the science dedicated to the study of the lipid barrier and the development of the right formulation for antipollution skincare.

To test whether Shiloxome™  elicits protective effects on current hyper-polluted lifestyle of most people, Provital scientists quantified the levels of ROS (Radical Oxygen Species) and the expression of genes involved in inflammatory response (CCL5, COX2, CSF2, GRO1 and TNFA) after the treatment of keratinocytes with Urban Dust – a standardized mix of common air pollutants from the Washington DC area. 

The testing also included a comprehensive lipidomic study with results showing that the active prevents pollution-induced lipid peroxidation and, consequently, the increase of the total chain length of the entire lipidome. 

More specifically, 328 different lipids were identified during the test, of which, after a bioinformatic analysis, 114 significantly different lipids were detected with Shiloxome™ versus the placebo, for which their level of peroxidation was counted. Next, a whole lipidome enrichment analysis was performed, assessing different lipid profile properties (lipid class, chain length and unsaturation), revealing that Shiloxome™ improves the overall lipid profile of the skin after 56 days of treatment.

The lipidome profile is thus shifted towards lipids with longer chain lengths thanks to Shiloxome™, ultimately improving the protective function of the skin barrier in polluted environments and contributing to the restructuring of youthful, healthy skin.All through a natural ingredient developed through Provital’s Triplobiome™ Technology, a pioneering cosmetic science initiative that uses plant endophytes as a sustainable source to produce new natural active ingredients.