Biotechnology applications in modern cosmetic formulations

The cosmetic industry is experiencing a profound transformation propelled by advancements in biotechnology. This field, which harnesses biological systems and living organisms to create or modify products, is revolutionizing the approach to skincare. By merging nature’s ingenuity with cutting-edge science, biotechnology enables the development of highly effective, sustainable, and personalized cosmetic formulations.

What is Biotechnology in Cosmetic Science?

Biotechnology in cosmetic science refers to the application of knowledge in life sciences to create products or services that are beneficial. It involves the use of microorganisms, enzymes, and genetic engineering techniques to obtain specific active ingredients that will be integral to advanced skincare formulations (Gomes et al., 2020).

So, biotechnology offers the precise manipulation of biological processes to produce ingredients with targeted functionalities. This leads to the creation of potent cosmetic formulations with increased biocompatibility and a reduced environmental impact. By leveraging biological systems, the cosmetic industry can develop ingredients that offer superior performance while aligning with sustainability goals.

Bio-guided processes: redefining natural cosmetic ingredient development

Bio-guided processes represent a cutting-edge approach to cosmetic ingredient development, leveraging the intricate cellular and biomolecular mechanisms of living organisms. This field encompasses a range of innovative techniques aimed at creating high-performance, sustainable, and ethically sourced ingredients.

The latest applications of bio-guided processes in cosmetics involve harnessing the power of living systems through techniques such as fermentation, tissue culture, plant cell culture, enzyme-based synthesis (biocatalysis), and metabolic engineering.

Fermentation Processes for Enhanced Cosmetic Efficacy

Fermentation is a fundamental biotechnological process that involves the transformation of organic substances through the action of microorganisms or enzymes. In the context of cosmetic ingredient innovation, fermentation plays a pivotal role across the applications of micro-algae, bio-guided processes, and plant microbiota. The process often results in enhanced bioavailability and absorption of ingredients due to the breakdown of complex molecules into smaller, simpler forms that can penetrate the skin more effectively.

Fermentation offers numerous benefits that enhance the efficacy, sustainability, and safety of cosmetic ingredients. Fermentation can also lead to an increased concentration of beneficial compounds such as antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals in the resulting ingredients. Furthermore, the fermentation process can produce natural acids and antimicrobial compounds, contributing to the natural preservation and stability of cosmetic formulations, reducing the need for synthetic preservatives.

From a sustainability perspective, fermentation is generally a low-impact, eco-friendly process that utilizes renewable plant-based resources and often requires less energy compared to traditional chemical synthesis. This can significantly reduce the environmental footprint of cosmetic ingredient production.

Key Applications of Biotechnology in Modern Cosmetic Formulations

As mentioned, biotechnology facilitates the production of a variety of active ingredients with specific cosmetic applications. These ingredients are often produced through fermentative processes and/or genetic engineering techniques, ensuring high quality and efficacy.

Micro-algae: a green powerhouse for cosmetic ingredients

Recent advancements have highlighted the diverse functionalities of micro-algae in cosmetics as a compelling source of novel cosmetic ingredients due to their remarkable ability to synthesize a diverse array of bioactive metabolites with unique biological activities. These microscopic organisms are considered “green fabrics” capable of producing a wide spectrum of compounds that offer numerous benefits for skin and hair care.

Algal bioactive metabolites, including polysaccharides, pigments, polyphenols, and proteins, exhibit potent antioxidant, anti-aging, and photoprotective properties. Carotenoids, well-known constituents of certain micro-algae, are powerful antioxidants that can protect skin cells from environmental stressors and improve overall skin appearance. Furthermore, micro-algae and their metabolites are utilized in many cosmetic formulations as moisturizers, texture-enhancing agents, whitening agents, anti-cellulite treatments, thickening agents, and for hair (Xia et al., 2021).

The increasing interest in micro-algae for cosmetic applications has spurred advancements in novel and sustainable extraction methods. Pressurized Liquid Extraction (PLE), Microwave-Assisted Extraction (MAE), Ultrasound-Assisted Extraction (USP), and Supercritical Fluid Extraction (CO2-based) are examples of such techniques being explored.

Plant Stem Cells for Anti-Aging Solutions

Plant stem cells are now cultivated to obtain concentrated extracts rich in antioxidants and growth factors. These extracts can stimulate skin regeneration and provide protection against environmental stressors (Gardiki et at., 2025), among many other benefits.

In line with our Do Care philosophy, in 2020 Provital brought together all the ingredients sustainably obtained from plant stem cells in “the Provital Stem Cells Collection”. This range includes a series of biotechnological products obtained through the same sustainable procedure but from different botanical sources, as each of the raw materials used were previously selected according to the potential activity on skin and/or hair searched for each cosmetic active ingredient (CareActives™).

Cosmetic Ingredients through Stem Cells Culture procedure

This common procedure of obtention of the suspension stem cells culture for each active ingredient comprises several stages of growth and medium optimization:

• The first step is to cut the part of the plant used for each product under sterile conditions and to select the best plant explant.  
• For subsequent callus induction, the explant is grown on MS solid medium, which guarantees the newly generated cells remain in a dedifferentiated stateand is subsequently grown on liquid medium until its structure is smooth and dispersible in liquids.
• Then, small fragments of the callus are transferred to a liquid culture medium that is constantly stirred to disperse the cells until the formation of the suspension culture.

Plant Stem Cells: an eco-responsible biotech obtention

The suspension culture obtained will be an eternal source of active molecules used in each of this kind of biotechnological CareActives™, due to the self-renewal power of the dedifferentiated cells (stem cells) of inside the suspension culture.

Therefore, it is thanks to this biotechnology that Provital can preserve each botanical source’s environment in nature, while still having full traceability of the raw material, and obtain sustainable active ingredients (CareActives™) through an eco-responsible biotech obtention method. The resulting CareActive™ will also be GMO-free (meaning with no genetic modifications applied) as well as with no phytosanitary products applied.

Plant stem cells in skin care are revolutionizing cosmetics by combining nature and technology, meeting consumer preferences for efficient and sustainable natural ingredients.

Altheostem™, for example, uses biotechnological plant stem cells to eliminate “zombie cells,” providing a new level of rejuvenation. This innovative approach targets cellular senescence, offering next-level efficacy and sustainability.

Plant microbiota: new potential for skin health and ingredient innovation

The intricate relationship between plants and their associated microorganisms, collectively known as the plant microbiota, is emerging as a promising area for cosmetic ingredient innovation, with significant implications for skin health.

Emerging applications of plant microbiota in cosmetic formulations are demonstrating a profound impact on skin health. Plant extracts, long valued for their rich composition of bioactive compounds, offer a myriad of benefits, including antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties. The different microbiota present in these ‘traditional’ extracts, derived from various plant parts, have been further studied for its use in cosmetics in the last years.

Plant endophytes: beyond plant microbiota

 Endophytes are symbiotic microorganisms residing within plant tissues, establishing intricate relationships through molecular and enzymatic exchange over extended periods. This long-term co-evolution with their host plants endows endophytes with a unique capacity to synthesize a diverse array of metabolites, drawing from both microbial and plant biosynthetic pathways.

Through co-evolution, endophytes have developed the ability to produce specific metabolites that benefit their host plants by enhancing defense mechanisms or promoting growth. They also help plants adapt to harsh environments—like drought or salinity—by complementing the plant’s genetic traits with their own environmentally shaped genes.

This inherent symbiotic relationship and the resulting metabolic versatility distinguish endophytes from other members of the plant microbiota, making them a promising source for novel cosmetic ingredients. These endophytes exhibit a remarkable capacity for synthesizing bioactive phytochemicals, They can produce a wide range of secondary metabolites, including isoprenoids, alkaloids, polyphenols, phytohormones, pigments, and enzymes, which have potential applications in cosmetics.

Ingredients derived from endophytes may offer barrier protection, hydration, anti-aging, and anti-pollution effects. Provital’s Triplobiome™ technology has yielded ingredients like Shiloxome™, derived from an endophytic yeast found in cork oak bark, offering anti-pollution and well-aging benefits.

Benefits of Biotechnology in Cosmetics

The integration of biotechnology in cosmetics offers numerous advantages, making it a pivotal force in modern cosmetic formulations.

• Increased Efficacy

Biotechnology enables the production of highly potent ingredients with targeted functionalities, significantly improving product performance. This precision ensures that active compounds are more effective in addressing specific skin concerns.

• Enhanced Sustainability

Lab-grown bioprocesses typically require fewer resources and generate less waste compared to traditional manufacturing methods. This leads to a reduced environmental footprint, aligning with the growing demand for sustainable practices in the cosmetic industry.

Biodiversity also serves as a rich source of inspiration and innovation for the development of new active ingredients with unique properties. Sustainable sourcing of these biological raw materials is not only an ethical imperative but also essential for ensuring the long-term availability of these resources and minimizing potential costs and risks associated with scarcity.

• Personalized Solutions

Biotechnology facilitates the development of tailored skincare solutions that address individual needs. By understanding individual skin profiles, cosmetic companies can create products that deliver personalized benefits.

• Innovation and Novelty

By leading to the discovery of new ingredients and the development of cutting-edge formulations, biotechnology drives innovation. This constant innovation ensures that the cosmetic industry remains at the forefront of scientific advancements, offering consumers the latest and most effective products.

Trends: Biotechnology in Cosmetics

• Increasing demand for natural and sustainable products: Consumers are increasingly seeking natural, sustainable, and green-derived cosmetic products, driving the demand for bio-based ingredients and eco-friendly formulations.
   
• Replacement of fossil-based ingredients: There is a growing trend toward replacing fossil-based ingredients with bio-based alternatives to reduce environmental impact and improve product safety.
   
• AI-powered customization: The use of AI-powered skin analysis for customized product recommendations is becoming more prevalent, enabling consumers to find products tailored to their specific skin needs.
   
• Targeting skin microbiota: The development of products targeting skin microbiota for maintaining healthy skin is gaining traction, reflecting a deeper understanding of the skin’s ecosystem.
   
• 3D printing in cosmetics: 3D printing is emerging as a transformative technology in cosmetics, enabling the creation of personalized skincare products, masks, and even wearable makeup.

Do not miss Episode 4 of Provitalks, where we dive into the fascinating world of the science behind the development of natural active ingredients for the beauty industry. Join us on a journey that takes you from the sourcing of ingredients to the testing phase and the advanced science happening inside Provital’s in vitro laboratory.

How Provital is Leading Biotechnological Innovation in Cosmetics?

Provital is at the forefront of high-tech cosmetic innovation, leveraging the latest advances in biotechnology and biodesign to create cosmetic ingredients that meet the highest standards of quality, safety, and sustainability. Provital is dedicated to improving the quality and ecological standards of cosmetic ingredients. Their commitment to sustainability and efficacy drives research and development efforts, resulting in groundbreaking products.

• Plant Stem Cell Culture: Provital utilizes advanced techniques such as plant stem cell culture to produce innovative active ingredients.
   
• CareActives™ based on Triplobiome™ Technology: some of the newest Provital’s CareActives™ line, based on Triplobiome™ Technology, exemplifies a commitment to biotechnological innovation, offering targeted solutions for various skin concerns. This new biotech platform uses plant endophytes as a sustainable and effective source to produce new natural active ingredients, with the persistent goal of maintaining the biodiversity – key for ecosystem balance – and preventing the use of the current huge plant biomass that is needed to achieve active compounds for cosmetic purpose.
   

Pureblome™: harmozing the skin of ever-blooming women

Pureblome™ is a novel post-biotic ingredient powered by Provital’s Triplobiome™ Technology. It is designed to mirror the balance of a natural ecosystem for comprehensive skin equilibrium. Pureblome™ contains a synergistic array of bioactive compounds derived from the bio-fermentation of Bacillus velezensis.

It’s an agro-psychological solution that combines the psychological benefits of nature with the physical renewal of sustainable practices. It harnesses the power of the symbiotic relationship between agroecological hyssop and its endophytic bacteria. Pureblome™ offers a triple efficacy approach, addressing the needs of mature women with anti-acne, well-aging, and anti-inflammaging benefits.

Pureblome™ enhances fibroblast revitalization, increasing cell migration, which is important for wound healing and dermal regeneration. It also boosts the synthesis of Collagen I and Elastin, supporting skin restructuring and well-aging. Pureblome™ reduces the formation of Advanced Glycation End products (AGEs), helping to maintain skin elasticity.

In vivo studies have demonstrated that Pureblome™ decreases Stratum Corneum Turnover Time (SCTT) by almost 2 days vs placebo, hence proving its skin renewing power. It also improves skin elasticity and smoothness.

By combining nature and science, Provital ensures that our technologies and scientific advancements align with the evolving needs of the cosmetic industry. Provital’s participation in organizations like the International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) underscores our commitment to cooperation and innovation in cosmetic science.

For further information or insights on this topic, please do not hesitate to contact our team of experts, who are available to provide guidance and support in selecting the most suitable solutions for your requirements.