Cacao extract: benefits for skin and hair

Cacao extract is the concentrated form of the active compounds found in cocoa beans found in Theobroma cacao, the cacao tree. 

The use of cocoa for wellbeing has been documented for millennia, primarily in the cultures of Mesoamerica. As such, the Mayans understood cacao beans as a gift from the gods and made the “xocolatl” drink to be consumed during religious rituals. Meanwhile, the high value of cacao meant there were more earthly uses of these beans, as they were also employed as a form of currency.

Modern science has been particularly intrigued about traditional knowledge around cacao, with scientific examination revealing a complex, unique chemical profile capable of activating cacao extract’s various advantageous effects. As such, cacao is known to be rich in antioxidants (particularly flavonoids), which play a key role in protecting the skin from environmental damage, boost hydration, and improve elasticity. This has turned cacao into an invaluable ally for a new era of plant-based anti-aging skincare. For hair, the extract’s theobromine and fatty acid content presents great potential for formulations looking to nourish the scalp, promote hair growth, and add moisture and shine.

At a time when consumers are favoring familiar, food-based formulas for beauty ingredients, the cacao extract stands out for its numerous and versatile advantages for both skin and hair health. 

Cacao extract benefits for skin

1. Antioxidant properties

A number of potent antioxidants can be found in cacao extract, including flavonoids, and polyphenols, which are key to protecting the skin from free radical damage. As more and more is understood about the mechanisms behind free radicals and maintaining skin health, antioxidant ingredients emerge as an ally to shield the skin against oxidative damage, UV radiation and environmental pollutants.

Cosmetic scientific research has focused through different approaches on the potential of cocoa extract for its antioxidant action. For instance, the role of theobromine (a compound found in cacao extract) has been many times linked to the capacity to “scavenge reactive oxygen species (ROS) generated in the skin as a consequence of UV exposure”, in scientific works. Even so, some experiments, (Ulrike et al., 2006) related to the effect of long-term ingestion of cacao in inducing photoprotection against UV-induced erythema.

Hydration and moisture 

Cacao extract has also been hailed for its capacities to improve skin hydration and elasticity. This action can be primarily attributed to the fatty acids and natural oils present in cacao extract, including palmitic, stearic and oleic acids. 

Working synergistically, this combination is able to strengthen the skin’s lipid barrier which, in turn, results in better capacities for locking in moisture and preventing water loss, both essential for maintaining skin hydration.

Stearic acid in particular, which is also present in other moisturizing plant-based ingredients such as avocado oil, acts as an emollient that softens and smoothes the skin, having a direct impact on improving its texture and elasticity.

Anti-inflammatory effects

The anti-inflammatory properties of cacao extract have also been the focus of scientific research. For instance, in ‘The Anti-inflammatory Properties of Cocoa Flavanols’ by Selmi et al. (2006), the paper mentions how “experimental evidence demonstrates that some cocoa-derived flavanols can reduce the production and effect of pro-inflammatory mediators either directly or by acting on signaling pathways”.

In this case, the polyphenols, flavonoids, and theobromine present in cocoa work together to activate anti-inflammatory activities, thus triggering a number of skincare benefits: from reduced redness and irritation to limiting overall inflammation, all of which can be crucial in skin conditions like acne, eczema, and psoriasis.

Anti-aging properties

The antioxidants present in cacao extract have been linked to a reduction of fine lines and wrinkles thanks to protecting the skin from oxidative stress, including the effects of photo-oxidative damage. 

An overview of the mechanisms of action involves looking at flavonoids and polyphenols in cocoa promoting the production of collagen by protecting skin cells from oxidative damage and thus encouraging the skin’s natural regenerative processes. 

Along similar lines, Nichols & Katiyar, 2009 mentioned in vitro and in vivo systems that have “both shown the protective effects of polyphenols on the biochemical processes that are induced or mediated by UV radiation.” Additionally, the properties of cacao extract related to aging processes have also been explored by Ma and Khachemoune (2022), which discusses research in the application of flavonoids in the prevention of premature photoaging, among more recent skin concerns.

Cocoa extract benefits for hair

Hair growth and strengthening

The properties of cacao extract to promote hair growth via a variety of strategies has also been examined through a variety of approaches. This includes the potential to enable hair growth in Tinea capitis scenarios (Kurnia, Kelutur, Mustarichie, 2021), a specific type of alopecia.

Overall, the nutrients and bioactive compounds present in cacao extract are naturally beneficial for nourishing hair follicles. Such is the case of theobromine, which plays a role in increasing blood circulation to the scalp, and thus delivering more oxygen and essential nutrients to the hair follicles, an essential condition for hair health and growth. 

Other compounds present in cacao extract, such as magnesium, zinc, iron or fatty acids are also allies for strengthening hair strands and nourishing both the scalp and hair.

Shine and texture

The natural oils in cacao extract play a role in moisturizing and conditioning hair, thus generating a visible improvement in hair texture and radiance. This is combined with antioxidants present in cacao which, by protecting hair from oxidative stress can lead to shinier, healthier hair.

Scalp Health

Cacao extract can soothe and nourish the scalp, fitting within the increased focus on scalp health. Thanks to the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory compounds found in cacao, this natural ingredient protects the scalp from external stressors. Additionally, the presence of fatty acids in cacao (including stearic, oleic, and palmitic acids) becomes an ally for moisturizing and nourishing the scalp. A combined action that can have a decisive effect on dandruff and other scalp conditions, provided the right approach is followed.

How to incorporate cocoa extract into beauty routines

As the multidimensional approach to improving skin and hair health of cacao extract is increasingly assimilated by cosmetic science, more and more brands are incorporating cacao extract within their formulation efforts. 

In this context, it’s worth noting that not all formulas are created equal. For consumers at home, the options in skin care today range from lotions and creams to body butters, serums, face masks and oils; for hair health, natural hair care formulations include shampoos and conditioners. Success in choosing the right product will most likely rely on looking for products that involve the right concentrations of cacao extract, and  especiallyto harness this ingredient’s peak power by choosing top-quality cocoa extract options. 

Provital’s Cocoa extract ECO represents an effort to bring high-quality cacao extract to the market with the highest cosmetic and sustainability standards. A COSMOS-certified extract, this cacao extract is paraben free and designed to become the ultimate ally for successful plant-based formulations that take the cocoa trend to the next level.

Register on our intranets for more information on how to use our COSMOS-certified Cocoa Eco for formulations.