Serum for men: deep dive in men’s skin essentials for acne and beyond

Formulations for a specific serum for men represent a key development in the male cosmetic segment. An increasingly mature market, driven by male consumers acquiring more sophisticated knowledge about their specific skin needs and developing their own preferences, specially among younger consumers.

A lightweight, highly concentrated formulation designed to deliver active ingredients deeper into the skin than a regular moisturizer, the serum for men is a natural next step for consumers looking to expand their skincare routine and brands looking to align with them.

What serum is good for men? An overview of the distinct male characteristics on skin

When considering what serum formulation can have the most beneficial effects for men, it’s first worth looking at the specific characteristics of male skin. Male skin is directly influenced by androgens, the male sex hormones, which have a direct effect on the skin’s fat, thickness and aging processes:

• Male skin is approximately 20-25% thicker than female skin.
• When it comes to signs of aging in male skin, there are two tendencies that differ from the aging processes in women. In men, aging signs typically appear later in life, thanks to a higher content in collagen and elastin; however, once it occurs, the loss of these two substances is more sudden, leading to deeper and more visible wrinkles.
• Because it presents more sebaceous glands, men’s skin is typically oilier, with more pores that are also larger in size. This is why male skin is typically more susceptible to acne and impurities.
• Skin in males presents a more acid pH, which can also lead to a higher likelihood of developing certain conditions such as dermatitis.
• Male skin also presents a higher number of hair follicles. As a consequence, opting for shaving typically means a higher irritation or skin sensitivity.

The rise of the serum format for men

Around the world, the male skin market is developing, driven by men using and shopping for more BPC products than before. Men are expanding their grooming routines and showing curiosity about new formulations.

Research around the world confirms men are taking better care of their skin and are demanding brands to lead in the design of innovative skincare routines that target men’s care. But that’s not all: as cosmetic science advances in providing more efficient treatments for skin conditions, consumers are also seeking formulas that address their particular skin concerns:

• In the UK, 27% of men believe beauty/grooming brands should prioritize developing products for people with skin conditions. 
• In China, 46% of men would purchase facial skincare if it was designed specifically for certain skin types.
• In the UK, 60% of men choose suncare products based on their skin type, and, in the US, 66% of men wish there were more suncare products made specifically for their skin type.

(Mintel, The Evolution of Men’s Grooming: 2024) 

These figures highlight how a male-focused skincare innovation has created a fertile ground for the development of specific skin-type formulas. The serum for men stands out at the center of this opportunity.

Serums targeting men’s specific problems 

While there are various male skin characteristics that a serum for men can address, fighting acne-prone skin stands out as a key development.

As seen above, a higher sebum production characterizes male skin, leading to a higher incidence of acne. It’s precisely in this context, and directly linked to the preference for natural, healthy cosmetics, that Provital has developed Trikenol™ Plus.

Trikenol™ Plus is a synergistic blend of two plant origin ingredients: terpinen-4-ol and willow extract, which have additionally been enriched with salicylic derivatives to provide a powerful natural anti-acne activity.

On the one hand, Terpinen-4-ol is obtained by fractional distillation of tea tree oil (Melaleuca alternifolia), known for its anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activity (Pazyar et al., 2013). On the other hand, the willow extract (Salix alba) is widely used in cosmetics and dermatology due to its moisturizing, keratolytic, anti-irritant and antiseborrhoeic properties, while also acting as an astringent, analgesic, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial active ingredient (Council of Europe, 2001). It is rich in polyphenols, flavonoids and salicylic derivatives, including salicylic acid, applied topically to treat keratolytic and skin desquamation disorders. 

The result is an active ingredient that addresses issues surrounding acne-prone skin in an all-encompassing perspective, as confirmed by Provital’s genderless testing: 

• In vitro, Trikenol™ Plus has shown antimicrobial and anti-irritating activity (comparable to that caused by acetylsalicylic acid).

In vivo testing included male panelists with acne-prone skin, demonstrating the ingredient’s efficacy in male skin specifics. The results showed an effect in sebum reduction by 77% and the number of active sebaceous glands by 32%, versus placebo; and a reduction in acne lesions (it reduced the area affected by inflammatory lesions by 12% at 21 days, versus placebo; and reduced inflammatory lesions by 5.2% and non-inflammatory lesions by 25.4%).

As such, Trikenol™ Plus represents a mighty alliance of natural ingredients derived from cutting-edge cosmetic science that presents a great potential for developing a wide-ranging serum for men that targets acne comprehensively.