How does melanin protect the skin against UV rays? 

Melanin is the body’s natural defense against environmental factors. It’s a key molecule that protects our skin. Melanin is made by specialized cells called melanocytes, located in the skin’s basal layer. Melanogenesis is the key process to understand how does melanin protect the skin against UV rays.

​​What is melanin in skin?

​​There are two main types of melanin. Eumelanin, which is brown or black, provides strong UV protection. Pheomelanin, which is yellow or red, offers less UV protection and may contribute to harmful reactions when exposed to UV light. The variation in skin color among people is due to the type, amount, and distribution of melanin, not the number of melanocytes. ​​​ 

Melanocytes transfer melanin to keratinocytes, the main cells of the epidermis. Together, a melanocyte and the keratinocytes it supplies form the epidermal melanin unit (EMU), which is essential for skin color and protection ​​(Hida et al., 2020).

​​How does melanin protect the skin from UV rays? 

Melanin protects the skin through ​multiples mechanisms. Primarily, ​it acts as a physical barrier, scattering UV radiation and reducing its penetration into the skin​. Melanin also absorbs UV radiation across a range of wavelengths, preventing damage to cellular DNA. The absorbed energy is released as heat, which prevents harmful chemical reactions in the skin. By absorbing and scattering UV rays, melanin helps prevent DNA damage and mutations.

Within keratinocytes, melanin forms a protective cap over the nucleus, shielding the genetic material from UV radiation. Eumelanin also has antioxidant properties, neutralizing harmful​ UV​ rays​ exposure and reducing oxidative stress (D’Mello et al.,2016). 

​​Melanin UV protection: the limitations 

Melanin doesn’t provide complete protection against UV radiation and ​​tanning, especially against longer UVA wavelengths. The level of protection varies depending on the type and amount of melanin, which is largely determined by genetics and skin type. In this regard, pheomelanin is less effective than eumelanin in protecting against UV rays. In fact, pheomelanin may increase the production of harmful ROS when exposed to UV light.

Untrue to an old common belief, people with dark skin can also experience sun damage. While darker skin is less likely to sunburn due to higher eumelanin content, photoaging and DNA damage can still occur.

The distribution and stability of melanin also affect its protective abilities. In lighter skin, melanin may degrade faster and be distributed less effectively, reducing its protective capabilities.

Besides, the protective capacity of melanin can be overwhelmed by intense UV radiation and prolonged exposure.

​​Importance of sun protection: how to protect skin from UV damage? 

UV radiation (UVA and UVB) can cause sunburn, premature aging, DNA damage, and increase the risk of skin cancer, including melanoma. Therefore, relying on melanin alone is not sufficient, and comprehensive sun protection is essential nowadays. 

Sunscreen is a vital ​complement ​​to melanin’s natural defenses. Broad-spectrum sunscreens are crucial because they protect against both UVA and UVB rays. Sunscreens are divided into physical sunscreens (mineral-based, like titanium dioxide and zinc oxide), which reflect UV radiation; and chemical sunscreens, which absorb UV radiation and release it as heat. ​skincare products rinch in antioxidants can further enhance UV protection by neutralizing free radicals caused by sun exposure, ​threreby ​supporting melanin’s function.

Plant extracts, such as those from lingonberry, are rich in antioxidants and can help combat UV-induced oxidative stress. These ingredients can work with melanin to improve overall photoprotection. Skin faces various environmental stressors in addition to UV radiation, highlighting the importance of ingredients that can address a wide range of these challenges.

By neutralizing ROS, ingredients like Lingostem™ can work synergistically with the skin’s natural melanin to enhance overall photoprotection. On top, research continues to reveal that the skin encounters a multitude of environmental stressors beyond UV radiation, suggesting a valuable role for multifaceted ingredients like Lingostem™ in addressing a broader spectrum of these challenges. 

Best practices for UV defense: a holistic approach 

Protecting your skin from UV damage requires a comprehensive strategy: consistently apply broad-spectrum sunscreen with adequate SPF, seek shade during peak sun hours, wear protective clothing like wide-brimmed hats and UV-blocking sunglasses, incorporate antioxidant-rich skincare to fight free radicals, like those present in Lingostem™, and understand your skin type to personalize your defense

​​Melanin research: the future in skincare

Ongoing research is expanding our understanding of melanin production. By studying the proteins involved in melanin production, such as MITF, tyrosinase, TYRP1, and TYRP2, we can develop innovative skincare ingredients that target these pathways safely and effectively. This research includes exploring natural compounds that can modulate melanin production for better photoprotection and address hyperpigmentation.

​​Innovations in melanin-based skincare products

Future skincare innovations are likely to focus on supporting the skin’s natural melanin production in a healthy way. For instance, research into ​biomimetic melanin or melanin-like compounds​ could lead to skincare products with enhanced photoprotective capabilities, similar to melanin’s natural defense mechanisms. New cosmetic materials, like those derived from neural stem cell-derived conditioned media (NSC-CM), show promise in melanin regulation and skin fairness (Wang et al., 2024).

​​​​​​​​While directly increasing melanin levels topically is difficult and still under study, advancements are being made with antioxidant-rich formulations. In this direction, plant and biotechnological extracts are continuously being studied for their ability to work with melanin to neutralize UV-induced free radicals and reduce oxidative stress.

​​How is technology advancing melanin protection?

Technological advances in skincare research have led to a better understanding of melanogenesis. This may lead to future targeted ingredients that support healthy melanocyte function and melanin production.

Increasingly, novel bioactive compounds are being developed that function as transcriptional modulators, influencing the gene expression profiles governing melanogenesis and impacting pathways associated with melanocyte senescence.

Beyond direct antioxidant strategies, technological advancements are also focusing on influencing the complex cascade of melanin production and distribution through novel pathways. Some more and more examples multi-targeted approaches, representing significant innovation in addressing skin pigmentation challenges by working in harmony with the skin’s own biological systems. 

On the other hand, biotechnology is increasingly important in improving melanin protection in skincare, as it allows for the sustainable sourcing and standardization of plant extracts with photoprotective and antioxidant compounds, like Lingostem™, a cosmetic active ingredient derived from lingonberry (Vaccinium vitis-idaea) plant stem cells. This ingredient is produced through a controlled in vitro cell culture process, which allows for the synthesis and concentration of beneficial natural compounds found in the plant. The lingonberry was specifically chosen as a source due to its inherent mechanisms for protecting itself against solar radiation, including the synthesis of potent polyphenols with antioxidant and anti-free radical properties. 

Lingostem™ offers direct antioxidant action, reducing oxidative damage from UV and IR radiation. It enhances the skin’s natural cellular antioxidant response by promoting p38 protein phosphorylation, which triggers the synthesis of enzymes like Superoxide Dismutase (SOD). This boosts the skin’s ability to combat oxidative stress from IR-A radiation. Additionally, Lingostem™ reduces hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂) levels post-IR-A irradiation in fibroblasts. By harnessing the protective properties of lingonberry, this technology supports skin resilience against UV-induced Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) and related damage.​​ 

For further information or insights on how does melanin protect your skin, please do not hesitate to contact our team of experts, who are available to provide guidance and support in selecting the most suitable solutions for your requirements.