Spreading Clean Beauty

Micropeeling: new product ideas to lead the “dermolution” trend

In a few years, micropeeling has become more than a buzzword: it’s now one of the most sought-after treatments for effective anti-aging action. However, BPC companies must be mindful about the new “dermolution” trend. Find out exactly what dermolution is and how brands can respond by developing effective micropeeling treatments. 

The dermolution trend and its role in micropeeling

The term “dermolution” includes a series of consumer behaviour trends that seek a revolution in beauty and personal care products, focusing on achieving a healthy and strong skin by improving their microbiome and developing a strong skin barrier.

Consumers following the dermolution trend are informed about specific skin health issues and want brands to provide scientific validation for their products’ performance. They’re also interested in therapeutic and medically-oriented products. 

At the same time, there’s a rise of the so-called skintellectuals and skinfluencers on social media, who are boosting results for brands that provide dermatological, science-based results. Following this trend, clinical brands in 2020 took 33% of skincare market share, having experienced a growth of +3% in the last year. 

This trend has been accelerated in the pandemic context, as more and more citizens are interested in pursuing healthy habits, incorporating daily routines that improve their overall wellbeing and becoming health-conscious consumers.

In such a context, micropeeling has become a sought-after treatment:

from 2018, it’s been one of the fastest-growing treatments worldwide, according to ISAPS’ international survey on aesthetic/cosmetic products and is now the second most popular treatment in the non-surgical category. 

This has led brands to develop products that adopt the word “peel” in their narratives and claims. At the same time, the need for social distancing has also boosted demand for at-home treatments and products that are incorporated into beauty routines, seeking relief for both body and mind.

In order to match this new type of consumer, who is demanding clear and transparent information about peeling and its effects, companies must develop trustworthy science narratives.

All in all, beauty and personal care consumers are eager to discover effective treatments that also provide a wellness narrative, in a context where skin care has experienced a “healthification” trend. This background provides the peeling category with an unprecedented surge, which is now ahead of hyaluronic acid, prevalent only a few years ago. 

ApibreezeTM: the active for micropeeling that responds to dermolution demands

Apibreeze™ stands out as a natural active that companies can incorporate to their micropeeling products and narratives in order to respond to this new dermolution trend.

This active, derived from multi-flower honey, concentrates a series of characteristics that resonate with today’s increasingly informed consumers: 

  • Science-based micropeeling. Apibreeze™ has shown in-vitro efficacy for a number of skin improvements, including a gene expression profile associated with cellular cohesion, an overexpression of the Desmocollin gene associated with epidermal integrity, and an increase on hydration and hyaluronic acid synthesis. It also provides a keratolytic effect, acting on desquamation and promoting an optimal maintenance of the extracellular matrix due to a boost in collagen synthesis, thus actively fighting aging signs.
  • Progressive and kinder exfoliation. In-vitro tests also show that Apibreeze™ generates less irritation than traditional peeling remedies and causes no inflammatory response. 

Traditional peeling relies on alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) that work to reduce wrinkles, blemishes and dark spots, as well as providing increased luminosity and the refining of pores, by stimulating cell renewal with their chemical exfoliator action, which removes dead cells from the upper layers of the epidermis. However, these acids generate secondary irritant effects that have sometimes put off consumers from demanding micropeeling treatments.

On the contrary, Apibreeze™ boosts polyhydroxy acids, whose characteristics are similar to AHAs, but present two or more hydroxyl groups, giving them greater moisturizing properties. They also have a larger molecular size, which makes penetration slower and more gradual, resulting in high cutaneous tolerance. It has been shown that the efficacy of PHAs is similar to that of AHAs, in terms of the different cosmetic benefits mentioned earlier, and that they have a higher tolerance level in very sensitive skin with conditions such as rosacea and/or atopic dermatitis.

The active is also COSMOS approved and accredited as 100% natural as per ISO 16128 certification. 

All in all, the active provides a solid foundation for brands to develop micropeeling products that respond to what today’s informed consumers are demanding.

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