The physical exfoliant: a new era of gentler formulations

Physical exfoliation refers to any method of removing dead cells from the surface of the skin by manually scrubbing it via textured products or specific tools. 

At the heart of physical exfoliation practices is skin cell turnover, that is, the renewal of skin  by producing new cells and shedding the old, dead ones from the surface. While skin cell turnover occurs naturally, exfoliation beauty routines are designed to accelerate this process. 

The use of a physical exfoliant presents distinct benefits, including a smoother skin texture after the treatment and a more radiant appearance due to the sloughing off the buildup of dead skin and a thorough clearing of clogged pores and removal of excess oil and debris. This action, in turn, is also regarded as an effective strategy for reduced acne and breakouts.

The right approach to a physical exfoliant today takes consumer preferences into account by incorporating natural ingredients and offering exfoliation formulas that are gentle while also ensuring proper moisturization.

Types of physical exfoliants: what are the available options?

• Scrubs: the most common type of physical exfoliant, they typically come in forms like creams, gels or pastes. They contain abrasive particles (sugar, salt, ground nutshells…), which are in charge of physically scrubbing away dead skin cells when massaged onto the skin. 
  Current developments in cosmetic science have meant advanced scrub ingredients can avoid the potentially irritating effects of certain scrubs. One such example is Apibreeze™, which can be incorporated into scrub formulations that are not only effective, but also gentle on the skin, as explained below in this article.
• Brushes: manual and electric brushes work to gently remove dead skin cells thanks to their bristles, which are in charge of buffing and polishing the skin surface. Different types of brushes are available today, including manual and electric options of the following:
  • Facial brushes, with finer and softer bristles to avoid irritation.
  • Body brushes, which are coarser than facial options and designed for dry body brushing before showers. These present the added benefits of stimulating blood circulation and lymph flow.
  • Sonic cleansing brushes, which use high-frequency vibrations that dislodge dirt and dead skin cells from the pores, while also offering a gentle massage.
• Sponges: both natural and synthetic sponges are available as gentle exfoliation options designed for use during showers. Sea sponges and konjac sponges are current popular alternatives among the natural options. Synthetic sponges, on the other hand, are made of materials like nylon, polyester or polyurethane. Loofah sponges, also a popular option for physical exfoliation, can have natural or synthetic origins.

The 4 benefits of physical exfoliation for your skin

1. Improved skin texture

Removing dead skin cells thanks to a physical exfoliant reveals smoother, softer skin that also looks younger. Because it encourages cell turnover, it becomes an ally for reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

2. Reduced acne and breakouts

Exfoliation helps unclog skin pores by removing the buildup of oil, dirt and dead skin cells, an environment where bacteria, inflammation and acne typically thrive. As such, individuals with oily or acne-prone skin can particularly benefit from incorporating the right physical exfoliant into their beauty routines.

3. Enhanced product absorption

By removing the barrier of dead skin cells, a physical exfoliant also becomes an ally for allowing other skincare products to penetrate more effectively, maximizing their benefits.

With its gentle exfoliation action, Apibreeze™ helps increase the absorption of moisturizers and serums, enhancing these product’s action to nourish and hydrate the skin.

4. Brighter skin tone

Exfoliation reveals the fresh, radiant skin that is underneath dead skin cells. As such, the use of a physical exfoliant leaves a chance for the skin’s natural glow to become more visible. 

Choosing the right physical exfoliant: a personalized approach

• Skin type considerations. Simply put, different skin types require different levels of exfoliation and should pick a physical exfoliant accordingly. For instance, oily or acne-prone skin can benefit from more frequent exfoliation and may also be able to tolerate more abrasive ingredients. On the other hand, dry or sensitive skin should look for formulas that provide gentle formulation, and incorporate exfoliation less frequently into their beauty routines.
• Types of exfoliating particles. Particle size and shape play a key role in choosing the right physical exfoliant for each skin type. Generally speaking, smaller, finely-milled and round particles tend to be gentler on the skin and minimize the risk of irritation.
• Frequency of use. Again, the right frequency of use is directly linked to each individual’s skin type and needs. This is particularly important, as over-exfoliation can be detrimental for skin health. As such, it’s advisable to start incorporating a physical exfoliant once or twice a week and adjust routines based on the skin’s response.

Potential risks and side effects of physical exfoliation

Over-exfoliation or the use of inadequate formulations can lead to a number of issues, including damage to the skin’s protective barrier or higher sun sensitivity. This means even gentle physical exfoliants should be used in moderation, and only after performing a patch test to guarantee individual responses are adequate.

Individuals with skin conditions such as active eczema or psoriasis should consult a dermatologist before using physical exfoliants.

Apibreeze™: a gentle ingredient for enhanced physical exfoliants

Apibreeze™ emerges as a unique ingredient blend from cosmetic companies looking to add an advanced natural ingredient into their physical exfoliant formulations. 

Based on the unique combination of gluconolactone and honey, this ingredient represents a gentle yet effective exfoliant option that is suitable for various skin types.

More specifically, this biotechnological ingredient incorporates polyhydroxy acids (lactobionic acid and gluconolactone), which have been enhanced with award-winning and locally produced honey.

Polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) present the same keratolytic effect as alpha hydroxy acid, but avoid the potentially irritating effects of AHAs. Gluconolactone in particular is known for its larger molecular size, which ensures a gradual, slower exfoliating action in the deeper skin layers (Jarząbek-Perz et al., 2021). This presents a great opportunity to devise physical exfoliants that offer a higher tolerance for diverse skin types, including dry or sensitive types. 

Additionally, PHAs present two or more hydroxyl groups, a characteristic that ensures greater moisturizing properties, especially useful for gentle physical exfoliant formulations. What’s more, PHAs also induce protection against free radicals. 

The result is a natural ingredient that acts as an effective exfoliant while also improving skin hydration, texture, comfort and softness. Through its antioxidant effect, it also turns into an ally for preventing premature aging and sun damage.

Furthermore, because of its neutral odor and color, gluconolactone can appeal to consumers seeking fragrance-free skincare options.

The inclusion of honey in Apibreeze™ perfectly complements this ingredient’s focus on gentle exfoliation. Honey is packed with flavonoids, natural enzymes, vitamins and minerals. A distinct chemical composition that has granted honey a place in traditional pharmacopeias around the world. Current scientific research also recognizes the “pharmacological activities” of honey and honey-related products, including “antibiotic, anti inflammatory, antiallergenic, tonic and antiaging (…) antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, disinfectant, antifungal and antiviral” (Kurek-Górecka et al., 2020).

In the case of Apibreeze™, multi-flower honey enhances the benefits of PHAs, boosting their hydrating and protective effect by generating a synergistic action. Being locally sourced, the ingredient makes a difference in generating sustainable and ethical beauty ingredients. 

Embrace the glow of healthy skin by the right physical exfoliant into cosmetic routines

All in all, physical exfoliation represents a key strategy to achieve smoother, brighter, and healthier-looking skin. Picking the right physical exfoliant involves considering each individual’s skin type, as well as each ingredient’s composition and specific action. 

In this context, advanced ingredients like Apibreeze™ emerge as great alternatives for all skin types. Thanks to its unique blend of gluconolactone and honey, the active presents an opportunity for developing formulations that offer gentle yet effective results.

For further information or insights on this topic, please do not hesitate to contact our team of experts, who are available to provide guidance and support in selecting the most suitable solutions for your requirements.