Substitutes for mineral oil: introducing the natural alternatives

The quest to find the right substitutes for mineral oil has found a natural ally in several efficient plant-based oils. 

Cosmetic-grade mineral oils have been widely used in the industry and, when properly refined, are considered safe by regulatory bodies such as the FDA and the European Medicines Agency (EMA).

However, in recent times consumer concerns have focused on finding substitutes for mineral oil. A key reason for this is related to the petroleum origin of mineral oils, which has become increasingly problematic for consumers motivated by sustainability and who show a significant preference for natural and plant-based oils.

In light of such movements within consumer choices, the cosmetic industry is also active in finding substitutes for mineral oil. A trend that is reflected in the increased number of products that use the “mineral oil/petroleum free” claim, specifically, as shown by specialized research published by Mintel. This increase is true across all major cosmetic categories, with color cosmetics showing the biggest growth (164.7%). 

In this context, an expanding number of choices within botanical beauty offer a positive outlook in the mission for finding substitutes for mineral oil.

What is mineral oil and how is it used in cosmetics?

Mineral oil is a colorless, odorless oil derived from the refining of crude oil.  

Widely used in various industries, when it comes to the cosmetic sector, mineral oil undergoes a thorough refining process that ends with what is labeled as “white mineral oil”, a highly purified substance where impurities have been removed and that meets applicable regulatory standards. 

Regarding its use in cosmetics, mineral oil offers a series of beneficial properties. On the one hand, its moisturizing capacities come from its action as an effective occlusive agent, thus forming a barrier on the skin’s surface that prevents moisture loss. Additionally, as part of the emollient category, it helps smoothening the skin. Moreover, mineral oil has also been praised for being an inert and stable ingredient for cosmetic formulation (that is, for maintaining the integrity of cosmetic products), and for its capacity to act as a solvent.

Why look for substitutes for mineral oil? 

As seen above, mineral oil has been widely used in cosmetics as an effective and inexpensive option for moisturizing formulas. When looking at the working principle behind this moisturizing power, it’s important to understand that these oils act as occlusive and consequently,  decrease transepidermal water loss (TEWL). On the other hand, they present a low capacity to penetrate the skin, moving away from advanced moisturizing trends such as hydroboosting.

As we’ve mentioned above, the mission to find substitutes for mineral oil is partly fueled by a preference to move away from the use of petroleum and towards plant-based sources. However, increased scientific knowledge around the mechanisms for hydration can also be mentioned for this shift in preferences. As such, certain plant-based oils have been found to provide improved moisturizing, as well as being able to penetrate the skin more deeply due to presenting smaller chemical structures.

On top of this, those looking for substitutes for mineral oil can have access to a wide-range of benefits that the right type of plant-based oils offer, presenting an integral, extensive approach to skin care that includes but also goes beyond TEWL.

What is a good substitute for mineral oil? 

For those seeking alternatives to mineral oils, several plant-based oils represent a wise and popular choice. From jojoba oil’s similar texture to the skin’s natural sebum, to the deep nourishing and moisturizing power of coconut oil and the rich antioxidant activity of argan oil.

In the specific context of looking for substitutes for mineral oil, shea butter oil must be highlighted. Derived from the shea tree or karite tree (Butyrospermum parkii), the butter made from the seed of this plant is naturally rich in fat material, and extensively used in the cosmetic and food industry.

Shea butter oil represents an outstanding emollient for both skin and hair care due to its triglycerides and unsaponifiables content. 

As a powerful emollient, shea butter oil is able to fill the spaces between corneocytes while not acting as an occlusive agent, repairing the skin and enhancing its permeability, thus improving the barrier function. This is particularly true for dry skin, which often sees a compromise in the skin integrity and cracked skin.

This action is amplified from its components, such as Vitamin E, and linoleic acid (essential fatty acids or EFAs), further restoring the structural integrity and function of cell membranes. In fact, deficiencies linked to EFAs produce physiological effects such as epidermal hyperproliferation (which results in a scaly skin appearance) as well as damages to the barrier structure of skin (consequently increasing trans-epidermal water loss).These advantages must also be paired up with the anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and photo-protective activity observed in shea nut oil.

As such, this natural ingredient thus stands out as a key ally to formulate cosmetic products that go beyond looking for substitutes for mineral oil, and provide deep repair and conditioning for both skin and hair formulations.