Spreading Clean Beauty

Taking the niacinamide and lactic acid trend further

Acids are taking off in skincare. An ingredient that might have initially prompted some hesitance amongst consumers is now highly sought after; more and more products are appearing featuring AHAs, BHAs, and PHAs. Particularly on-trend are niacinamide and lactic acid, which big beauty brands and new players alike are pushing to eager consumers.

Niacinamide, also known as vitamin B3, is a B complex vitamin that the body needs to process fats and sugars. Lactic acid, meanwhile, is a type of AHA that naturally occurs in dairy products. If you’ve ever noticed that unsweetened natural yogurts have a certain tang, it’s the taste of lactic acid.

These ingredients are growing in popularity because of their broad spectrum benefits. Both are gentle exfoliants that improve the skin’s surface with less irritation. Lactic acid is particularly good to prepare the skin so other products can penetrate deeper. Niacinamide also supports the skin’s lipid barrier, protecting it against UV radiation, bacteria, dirt, and environmental toxins.

But, if these ingredients are so popular, how can you stand out from the crowd? Here, we offer some solutions.

How AquaxtremTM & ApribreezeTM improve on the trend

Although niacinamide and lactic acid are regarded as gentle exfoliants, researchers have found ingredients with even greater benefits. AquaxtremTM, developed by Provital, combines the acid trend with rich moisturization. This is due to the chemical composition of the active ingredient rhaponticin, a naturally occurring compound in rhubarb. 

These broad-spectrum benefits are due to rhaponticin’s action on proteins in the Normal Human Epidermal Keratinocytes (NHEK), which stimulate the skin to moisturize itself from within. In in vitro studies, scientists compared rhaponticin to niacinamide to measure its action on this natural barrier. According to their findings, a statistically significant increase in the levels of the proteins filaggrin and involucrin was observed after treatment with rhaponticin, comparable to the levels reached with niacinamide.

Also tapping into the acid trend is the unique ApibreezeTM blend. This ingredient contains polyhydroxy acids (PHAs), such as lactobionic acid and gluconolactone, whose characteristics are similar to AHAs but with two or more hydroxyl groups, giving them greater moisturizing properties. Blended with organic honey, this ingredient provides superior moisturization alongside gentle exfoliation. 

In in vitro studies, researchers observed positive gene expression in keratinocytes, which are notable for their action on cellular cohesion. This, in turn, was linked to a strengthening of the epidermis in exchange for a refinement of the stratum corneum deriving from its keratolytic action. As such, ApibreezeTM is an evolution of the AHA, BHA, niacinamide and lactic acid trends.

Beyond niacinamide and lactic acid

Niacinamide and lactic acid are appearing more and more on ingredient lists. When a trend is so prevalent, beauty brands need to differentiate themselves by offering the most innovative solutions in a crowded market. Evolved moisturizing exfoliators like AquaxtremTM and ApibreezeTM offer these solutions, helping beauty brands offer something that stands out.

Or, for a straight out-of-the-box solution, Provital has developed the Capricorn mild exfoliant. Harnessing ApibreezeTM this ingredient combines the natural chemical peel trend with astrology aesthetics, which particularly appeals to millennial and Gen Z beauty buyers. Download the eBook to discover more astrology-inspired formulas.

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