Licorice root benefits for the skin: a powerful natural anti-inflammatory 

Harnessing the power of licorice root for skin health 

Licorice root has earned recognition not only in traditional medicine but also in modern dermatology and cosmetics.  

Its unique bioactive compounds have been widely researched for their ability to brighten skin, reduce inflammation, and protect against free radical damage. This versatile plant continues to inspire innovative formulations designed to support skin health and radiance. 

What is licorice root and where does it come from? 

Licorice, known scientifically as Glycyrrhiza glabra L., is a perennial herbaceous plant belonging to the Fabaceae family. Its name, derived from the Greek words glykos (sweet) and rhiza (root), aptly describes the unique taste of its subterranean parts. This plant, which can grow to a height of 1.5 meters, is native to the Mediterranean region, including southeastern and southwestern Europe, and Central Asia. It thrives in rich, sandy soils, often found near riverbanks and in cultivated fields. Today, it is extensively cultivated in various parts of the world, including Spain, India, Iran, Turkey, China, and Russia, to meet global demand. 

The use of licorice root is not a recent phenomenon. Its long history as a therapeutic agent spans millennia, with documented use in traditional medicine systems. Ancient Egyptian texts, for instance, reference it, and it has been a staple in both Ayurveda and Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) for centuries. In these systems, it was traditionally employed to treat a wide array of ailments, with a particular emphasis on its ability to soothe gastrointestinal discomfort and its powerful anti-inflammatory properties for both internal and topical use. This rich historical background provides a strong foundational testament to its efficacy and safety. 

For the modern cosmetics industry, the value of Glycyrrhiza glabra lies in its roots and rhizomes, which are the source of its most effective bioactive compounds. Provital harnesses these benefits through its Licorice-Eco extract, a product derived from a sustainable and traceable supply chain. This raw material is meticulously processed to preserve the integrity of its active components, ensuring a high-quality ingredient for sophisticated skincare formulations. 

Licorice root: A natural solution for skin brightening 

The active compounds in licorice root and their role in skincare 

The therapeutic and cosmetic efficacy of licorice root extract is a direct result of its complex phytochemical profile. The root is a true reservoir of bioactive molecules, most notably triterpene saponins and a diverse array of flavonoids.  

Among the most critical active compounds is glycyrrhizic acid, also known as glycyrrhizin. This saponin, which constitutes a significant portion of the extract (5-20% depending on origin and assessment method), is a key contributor to its anti-inflammatory properties. 

Beyond glycyrrhizin, other powerful flavonoids play a synergistic role. Glabridin, a major flavonoid found in the lipophilic fraction of the extract, is a well-researched compound celebrated for its skin-brightening and antioxidant properties (Kang et at., 2021).  

Similarly, Licochalcone A, another powerful flavonoid, has been demonstrated to possess significant anti-inflammatory and sebum-regulating activities, making it highly effective for blemish-prone skin (Pastorino et al., 2018). The interplay between these compounds—the saponins and the flavonoids—creates a holistic action that is far more potent than any single isolated molecule, delivering multi-targeted benefits for skin health. 

The role of glycyrrhetic acid in skin inflammation control 

Within the complex matrix of licorice root’s phytochemistry, the action of glycyrrhizic acid is particularly noteworthy. Upon hydrolysis, this saponin is converted into the aglycone glycyrrhetic acid (or glycyrrhetinic acid) and two molecules of glucuronic acid. It is this metabolite, glycyrrhetic acid, that is primarily responsible for the anti-inflammatory action attributed to licorice (Zuo et al., 2023). 

The mechanism by which glycyrrhetic acid controls skin inflammation is a subject of extensive research. It functions by inhibiting the enzyme 11-beta-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase type 2, which is responsible for the inactivation of cortisol in skin cells (Noreen et al., 2021). By inhibiting this enzyme, glycyrrhetic acid effectively increases the bioavailability and half-life of naturally occurring cortisol, a powerful anti-inflammatory hormone (Murray, 2020). This action mimics the effects of mild corticosteroids, such as hydrocortisone, but without the associated risks of long-term use. This makes it an ideal natural alternative for managing chronic inflammatory conditions. 

How licorice root extract works as an anti-inflammatory agent 

The anti-inflammatory prowess of licorice root extract is not limited to its glycyrrhetic acid content. It operates through multiple, interconnected biological pathways, making it a comprehensive solution for skin conditions. Its mechanisms of action include the inhibition of pro-inflammatory enzymes such as cyclooxygenase (COX-2) and lipoxygenase (LOX), which are crucial in the synthesis of prostaglandins and leukotrienes, key mediators of inflammation (Rudrapal et al., 2023). 

Furthermore, a study in the Journal of Dermatological Treatment demonstrated that a gel with 2% licorice extract treatment could significantly reduce erythema and oedema in subjects with atopic dermatitis, a chronic inflammatory skin condition. The study showed a marked improvement in skin health, with a reported efficacy of 83.76% after just two weeks of treatment (Saeedi et al., 2003). This robust clinical evidence underscores its potential as a frontline ingredient for products targeting irritated and sensitive skin. It provides formulators with the confidence to develop products that deliver visible results. 

The science behind licorice root’s skin benefits 

How licorice root reduces dark spots and evens skin tone 

Beyond its anti-inflammatory benefits, licorice root is a formidable natural skin brightener. Its ability to address hyperpigmentation is primarily attributed to the flavonoid glabridin.  

Research has shown that glabridin is a highly effective, non-cytotoxic inhibitor of tyrosinase, the key enzyme in the melanin synthesis pathway (Chen et al., 2016). By suppressing tyrosinase activity, glabridin prevents the overproduction of melanin, thereby reducing the formation of dark spots and promoting a more uniform complexion. 

This dual-action mechanism—managing inflammation while simultaneously inhibiting melanin production—is particularly beneficial for post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). The very inflammation that triggers the melanin cascade is simultaneously being soothed, preventing a feedback loop of irritation and discoloration. This dual targeting makes licorice extract a superior choice for formulations aimed at both calming and evening the skin tone. 

Safely incorporate licorice root into your skincare routine 

As with any powerful active compound, proper formulation and dosage are critical to ensuring efficacy and safety. The recommended concentration for licorice root extract in cosmetic applications is between 0.1% and 2.0%. 

Saeedi M et al (2003) designed a study to evaluate the effect of licorice extract on dermatitis as topical preparation. Different gels were formulated by using different co-solvents. After standardizing the topical preparations, the best formulations (1% and 2%) were studied in a double-blind clinical trial in comparison with base gel on atopic dermatitis over two weeks (30 patients in each group). 

Propylene glycol was the best co-solvent for the extract and Carbopol 940, used as a gelling agent showed the best results in final formulations. 

The quantity of glycyrrhizic acid was determined 20.3% in the extract and 19.6% in the topical preparation. The present study compared the efficacy of up to two weeks treatment with 1% and 2% licorice extract as an herbal gel with placebo in patients with a clinical diagnosis of atopic dermatitis. The erythema and oedema scores, relative to baseline, at the end of treatment after one and two weeks are shown in figure 1 and figure 2, respectively. 

At the end of the treatment, the reduction of erythema scores was 35.02% for 1% licorice gel and 60.76% for 2% licorice gel. The reduction of oedema scores was 56.64% and 83.76% for 1% and 2% licorice gel treatment after two weeks respectively. The results showed that licorice extract could be considered as an effective agent for treatment of atopic dermatitis.  At these concentrations, licorice root extract can be safely incorporated into a wide range of products, including serums, creams, lotions, and masks. 

For formulators and R&D professionals, this provides a clear and actionable guideline. It allows for the creation of targeted solutions for various skin conditions, from anti-aging to anti-acne formulations. When formulating, it’s also important to consider the synergistic potential of licorice. Research has shown that it can be effectively combined with other antioxidants and anti-inflammatories, such as vitamin C and turmeric, to create even more powerful, multi-functional products that deliver enhanced benefits to the end consumer. 

How Provital integrates licorice root extract into skincare solutions 

The key ingredients Provital uses in skincare 

Provital is at the forefront of the movement toward high-performance, natural, and sustainable cosmetic ingredients. Our approach is rooted in a deep understanding of natural sources and the application of cutting-edge extraction technologies to unlock their full potential. Licorice-eco is a prime example of this philosophy. By providing an extract rich in key active compounds, such as glycyrrhizic acid and glabridin, we offer formulators the tools to create products that are not only effective but also align with the growing consumer demand for clean and transparent beauty solutions. 

Our portfolio is designed to address a wide range of skincare routine needs, from powerful anti-aging actives to soothing anti-inflammatory agents. We recognize that the future of cosmetics lies in understanding and harnessing the complex synergies found in nature. By offering ingredients like Licorice-eco, we enable our partners to develop innovative products that address modern skincare concerns with scientific rigor and natural integrity. 

Provital’s role in enhancing skin health with licorice root extract 

Beyond merely supplying an ingredient, Provital sees its role as a partner in innovation. We believe in the power of licorice root not just as a treatment but as an adaptogen that helps the skin build resilience. An article on our blog, “Adaptogenic mechanisms and their applications on skincare“, further explores this concept, showing how ingredients like licorice help the skin cope with both internal and external stressors. 

By integrating licorice root extract into new and existing formulations, we help our partners create products that go beyond simple anti-inflammatory action. These solutions help strengthen the skin’s natural defense mechanisms, making it more resistant to daily stressors and reducing the likelihood of future irritation. Our commitment is to provide the highest quality, most effective natural ingredients that empower formulators to create truly transformative skincare solutions.  

We bridge the gap between traditional wisdom and modern science, providing the technical data and reliable supply necessary for our partners to succeed in a competitive market. 

The side effects and considerations of using licorice root for skin 

While licorice root is celebrated for its efficacy and is generally considered safe for topical use, it is crucial for formulators to be aware of certain considerations. As with any natural ingredient, there can be adverse effects for a small percentage of individuals with specific sensitivities. It is always a best practice to conduct patch tests to ensure product compatibility for all users.  

The concerns about systemic adverse effects related to licorice, such as changes in potassium levels, are almost exclusively tied to the long-term, high-dose oral consumption of the whole root or its glycyrrhizin content. For topical applications at the recommended dosage, these systemic effects are not a concern due to minimal transdermal absorption. This is an important distinction for cosmetics professionals to understand and communicate, as it allows for the confident use of this powerful root extract without fear of the systemic issues associated with oral ingestion. 

In conclusion, licorice root benefits for the skin are vast and scientifically validated. From its historical use in Traditional Chinese Medicine to modern clinical trials, it has proven to be a powerhouse natural ingredient. Its ability to act as an effective anti-inflammatory, its role as a natural skin brightener, and its adaptogenic properties make it an invaluable asset for formulators seeking to create advanced, results-driven skincare. By understanding the science behind the active compound and adhering to best practices, cosmetic professionals can unlock the full potential of this remarkable root extract to meet the evolving demands of a sophisticated market. 

For further information or insights on this topic, please do not hesitate to contact our team of experts, who are available to provide guidance and support in selecting the most suitable solutions for your requirements.